When I First saw this new bread of feeder, I thought it was the dumbest thing I had seen next to the BE eVLolution. But like most things, the design grew on me and I looked more at what this ugly duckling can do. I went out and got myself an Airguns Designs Warp Feed system. I had always wondered about it and had seen it on some Spyders at the Spyder Cup 2001. It isn't just for Mags anymore thanks to Pro Team!

The International Amateur Open and the WPF tourney rules have not allowed force-feeding systems until mid 2000 when AGD released this new contraption. Now, they changed the rules to allow them. The NPPL may change their rules soon if they have not already.

I had purchased the clear Warp Feed. The packaging is nothing spectacular. It is merely a clear case with the Warp Feed (WF from here on) and all the goods clearly visible and foam padding in the back for protection. The Airguns Design logo is prominently on the front of the packaging. Not much was spent on frill packaging, which is fine by me. This tells me that AGD has produced a great product and doesn't need fancy eye candy to sell. AGD has been producing high quality products for a great number of years. Why would they stop here?

Opening up the package, there you will find the main unit, a gray, bendable tube, a power feed attachment in the shape of a 'T', two black tubes, two screws, a mounting bracket and a 8.5x11" instruction sheet. All that is needed is batteries and some sort of agitating hopper like the Revi's. With all these items, you wonder what goes where? Unfortunately, the instruction sheet has no diagram. Everything is worded to explain what needs to be done and what goes where. For a new guy not used to just word instructions, this can be a daunting task. For an engineer documentation writer like me, piece of cake. Reading through the instructions, you get the feeling that you stepped into a new realm of feeding paintballs. Will it be better? We will soon find out.

What powers the unit is up to you. You can use 4 AA batteries (with a clip that is included) for 6volts of operation (good for under 10bps). Or install a 9v battery (good for 10bps and above). If you go with the 9v route, there is room enough for a second 9v as a spare. There is also available a 10v rechargeable from an AGD dealer. The instructions also warn not to add more than 12v or else the board will blow. It also suggests that you unhook your battery for long time storage. The WF will use 4v per month. A good thing to remember since it has no on/off switch.

I think I will start off with a 9v battery in the WF and my Revi. Where should I mount this on my Spyder? Even though the WF looks big and bulky, it is actually very versatile. It can be mounted on the left or the right side of the marker. I thought I would mount it on the left-hand side to make loading easier for the Revi. Also, the unit can be mounted either forward or inline with the grip. All of this adjustment is done with flipping the bracket around and move it within the slots. I used the 2 screws provided to mount the bracket to the WF. This required the use of a 1/8" allen wrench. I then used my mounting screws on my grip to attach the WF. (Those of you mounting it on a stock Spyder grip, you may not be as versatile; I do suggest getting an adapter that converts the off center holes to center holes)

Now, to figure out what black adapter goes where. The black adapter with the 2 diameters fits nicely in the forward hole of the unit. The rear hole on the unit is for the hopper. Both the hopper and the adapter can be secured by adjusting the 3 screws along the topside of the unit. Need to use a 1/8" allen wrench to do this.

Now, this leaves the gray tube, 1 black adapter, 2 power feed plugs, and a 'T' adapter. According to the directions, the black adapter fits on the bottom of the power feed tube. Sure enough, the adapter will fit on the bottom portion of the power feed (I had to sand some of the material off to fit around the weld that is around the power feed tube). Simply remove the stock feed plug, and replace it with the adapter. Inside of this tube adapter is a lip. There is a smaller surface area to the lip than the other end. The shortest end should be placed onto the power feed end.

Now you should be able to connect the two black adapters with the gray tubing. Make sure you push this tubing all the way on. The last thing that you need to install is a power feed plug. The longer one fits perfectly on the top of the power feed on the Spyder. You're done with the installation.

Evidently, the "T" is not used or the shorter power feed plug. You can use these for a different configuration if you wanted to feed from the top. I also want to point out also that I got the official AGD WF. Not the universal one from Pro Team which is available to be mounted on most any marker that is not from AGD. The power feed 'T' is for the AutoMags without power feeds. I do not suggest using the 'T' adapter on your Spyder. Two power feeds can actually slow feeding down or break paint.

On the bottom of the unit is a sliding door for the battery compartment. As mentioned earlier, there is room for two 9v batteries (one being used, the other as a spare) or four AA batteries. Make sure to unhook the batteries when done playing for the day. You can get a rechargeable 10v battery from AGD. Do not put more than this in the WF as it may blow the board.

On the right side of the unit is a black plastic cover that can be removed by unscrewing 3 small phillips head screws. This reveals the board that controls the unit. There are two sets of jumpers that you can move around. The one jumper can be set to "sens" to sense a fire from your marker (registers vibrations made by your marker when fired) or to receive a pulse electrical signal ('+' or '-') from the marker when fired. The instructions say that the WF works best with the "sens" jumper installed for blowback markers.

The other set of jumpers adjusts the time the disk inside of the WF will spin for feeding. There are 4 settings. The more the jumpers are installed (no particular order), the shorter the time the disk spins (and the greater the battery life. Less jumpers, the more the disk spins (and the lesser the battery life).

The vibration sensor is inside of the unit. This is adjustable for those markers that do not vibrate as much as other markers when they are fired. This is adjusted by turning a blue knob inside the unit. Counter clockwise for less sensitive, clockwise for very sensitive. All the way counter-clockwise will show no vibration sensed. Therefore, no disk movement. All the way clockwise will let the disk spin continuously whether the marker is fired or not fired. It is suggested for setting the sensitivity of your setup is to find out the two extremes that the disk spins when you fire the marker and setting the knob in the center.

Maintenance suggestions from the instruction sheet seem to be very simple in maintaining the WF. Grease the wheel, shaft, and gears with good quality grease to ensure smooth operation. Clean the inside of the case to keep grim from possibly interfering with the gears. Also, it is suggested to replace the o-ring that is used to drive the unit in about 1 to 2 years.

Another note about the clear housing of the WF unit; Since it is clear, you can take it apart and paint the inside of the unit. If you want color added to match your marker. I do suggest if you do decide to paint the inside, let windows so that you can see if the unit is working properly and possibly see broken paint. And why paint the inside? It will always have a shiny look so long the outside doesn't get too scuffed up. Also, the paint will last longer. There are other colors available from AGD (and Pro-Team) that is a see through case of basic colors. Not a wide variety to choose from.

Well, I got everything attached, batteries in, and sensors adjusted. Time for a test. Went outside and filled up with some paint. Turned on some air and got started. Because I had just filled the hopper, there was no paintballs in the WF. So I had to shoot some air for it to vibrate and spin the wheel. After 5-6 shots, it was all set.

I let go some slow shots. The wheel would spin and kept a constant feed. No problems encountered. Rapid fire, again, no problems at all. Switched my eLCD to full auto and set it to 15 balls per second. Shot off a burst for 4 seconds. Gravity fed hoppers has trouble with feeding faster than 12bps. Because of how the WF feeds the balls, the WF had no problems keeping up.

Now, another unique property that the WF has to offer that no stand alone hopper can achieve. I fired my marker in a 90* angle. Shot off in semi-auto 5-6 shots. It fed without problems. The disk was able to spin and force-feed the balls through the tube. The WF was close to being empty because the hopper was not able to feed because of no gravity pulling the balls through the tube. I was curious about one thing. I fired a few shots to refill the WF. I then turned the marker upside down and ripped off a few. The result? No feed problems. The balls are actually forced into the breech when the bolt allows it to.

I was both amazed and having so much fun with the WF that before I knew it, half a case was gone. No feed problems and most importantly, no broken paint.

You may be asking, if the disk rotates and puts pressure on the balls to feed, why are the balls not breaking in the WF? First, there are two disks, one on each side of the paintballs. These disks are flexible. The disk doesn't really put direct pressure on the balls. When there is nothing blocking the route, the disks will rotate and "push" the balls forward into the tube. If there is no need of a ball to enter the breech or is blocked for some reason, the disk will "slide" past the paintballs when it rotates while maintaining a constant forward push. It is very important to have a ball detent that is in good condition in place. Otherwise, a ball can roll forward and another ball will feed. Worse yet, a ball will feed halfway and break paint if shot.

Well, that is my review of the WF. From what I have seen and tested, it is a very reliable feed system that is well worth the money. It offers a very low profile. No more hopper sticking over the top of the bunker. Let's you aim over the top of the marker and provide a clear field of view. Want the hopper mounted on the left? Simply flip the mounting bracket over. Best part, let's you have a constant feed even if the marker is rotated on the side. Great for switching from side to side from around bunkers.

The only downfall that it has is that it is limited to the feed rate of the agitated hopper. But with all the pros that this feed has to offer, I think that can be lived with. AGD put a lot of thought into this new feed system and expect it to take hold in the industry. I do recommend this hopper to anyone that wants to squeeze more performance out of your marker.

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