The VS series is a new line of markers made by Kingman. It is an electronic marker with different modes of fire, accessories from the factory that one can purchase to make the marker unique, break beams standard and operates at 200psi. Certainly, when comparing to a mechanical Spyder, or even an Electra or Fenix, the description of the VS marker is a jump ahead to what Kingman has been putting out. Also, the only time that Kingman has touched upon a low operating pressure Spyder needed a radical change in design such as the EM1 and the Raven Primal.

In this review, like in many of the other reviews I have done, I hope to share with you some things that I like, do not like, and hope I can offer an unbiased opinion. Since I do tend to get wordy, then read the overview and final thoughts below and skip in between.

• Overview
• The Marker
• The Body Kits
• Firing The Marker
• Final Thoughts

Overview

The box shows the many color configurations that you can have for your marker. With the bigger picture showing what the marker looks like stock. On the back is a diagram featuring some of the things on this marker. The packaging inside has molded styrofoam internal to help protect the marker.

The VS series at this time of writing (October 2006) comes in 2 versions - the VS2 and VS3. Comparing the two markers, there are no real differences in either version. The differences are as follows -

VS2

• Silver Body with Black Highlights
• Infiniti Trigger

VS3

• Black Body with Black Highlights
• Rocking Trigger

The internals are the same between the two. As well as the performance. As a future owner, one only needs to consider if they wish to have the Rocking trigger or an Infiniti trigger. That, and the color of the body. The down side, there is no VS3 markers that are all black with the Infiniti trigger. This may be a turn off to some as black is a popular color, and the rocking trigger is not very well liked among the Spyder users due to some interface issues.

The price also is a difference. the MSRP for the VS3 is $329.95. For those that do not want the rocking trigger, the price is cheaper at an MSRP $249.95. With that price, however, you will need to live with the silver body.

Either way, both models feature a nice dust anodizing that doesn't shine. The foregrip is on a slight angle to allow for you to tuck the marker in tight allowing better control. And, comparing the body look to an older Spyder like the Fenix, the body looks like it was carved to set it apart from the original Spyders. The trigger grip is designed to look like the body and grip frame was made from one piece of aluminum. Certainly a stream lined design.

The other accessories are also designed to look like it was carved from the same aluminum. Kingman has certainly done a great job with the appearance. Also includes new designs in the paintball industry such as a locking collar feed neck.

The barrel is a real 2-peice barrel that actually can be unscrewed. I say this because I had the first generation Electra that advertised a 2-piece barrel and it did not unscrew apart. The stock barrel is 12" long and all black. The back part is 6.25" long. The internal finish is not bad. And is bored out to take medium sized paint. Which is a large percentage of what is available.

Along with the stock look, you can purchase a body kit. These body kits are available from Kingman as a direct replacement of the following parts on the VS markers -

• Striker Plug
• Low Pressure Chamber
• Fore grip Riser
• Metal eye covers
• Feed neck clamp ring

A matching barrel tip that is anodized with the same colors as the body kits are also available. This barrel tip replaces the front of the stock barrel to give it that extra splash of color. The MSRP for the body kit and barrel tip is $44.95 & $24.95 respectively. These kits are also anodized in a dust finish. More on the kits later.

Other items that come with the marker is a parts kit that has everything for maintaining your new investment. This tool kit contains:

• (4) Allen Wrenches
• (1) Cup seal
• (1) Striker Buffer
• (1) Flat Plastic washer
• (2) Ball detents
• (1) Screw
• (2) Small screws
• (2) Setscrews (for trigger)
• (1) Lock washer
• Various o-rings for the bolt, valve pin, regulator, etc...

A Java 9.6v battery and a wall charger are included. Also, a barrel plug since it is extremely rare outside of an organized field that safety devices are not required. And, there is also a 28-page booklet manual. A lot more information than what used to come with the first Spyders.

The manual is pretty complete with nothing too much in question. It is written in the International fashion as if this marker was in the hands of a person that never held the marker. For instance, page 2, point 4, it says "Cock the marker by pulling the Top Cocking Knob (#STK001) rearward until it latches. ...". The parenthesis has a part number that coincides with the diagram on page 20 so the new user understands what a cocking knob is.

The 3G technology is simply this... it is the 3rd generation of designs that Kingman has done. I will speculate that, without including the Hammer series, the original Spyders and Fenix was the first. The EM1 and Primal is the second. Now the VS is the 3rd.

The box is also nothing more than a colorful lid with styrofoam inside that holds everything in place.

The Marker

Battery - Before you can use the marker, you do need to use a fully charged battery. This requires you to remove 3 M4x8 screws from the left side of the grip. Install the battery, screw the grip back on. The frame should be in the OFF position. The charging port in on the heel of the grip is where one plugs in to charge the battery. The other end plugs into any standard 120v outlet found in any home. It is recommended that the battery be charged initially for 6-8 hours prior to use. Unlike some cell phone chargers, there is no smart electronics that will know when the battery is fully charged. It will keep charging. Do not allow this to happen as this could damage the markers electronics and/or battery. But, a few hours over will not cause it to explode.

On an average, the Java batteries (or any other 9.6v battery in a Spyder) should last between 2,500 to 6,000 shots. This large span can be attributed to how quickly you shoot and fire modes used. With this model, I easily went through an entire case and a 1/4 of another with no signs of a low battery. You should get a good number of full recharges of about 800 times with the Java battery. When the low battery light appears, you should change batteries for a fully charged Java Battery. Or charge the existing. The low battery will show as a rapid blinking green (semi mode) or orange light (burst mode), depending on the fire mode you are in.

It is also good to note that on page 6 that using a standard non-rechargeable 9v battery is not recommended. And could void the warranty. Also a non-Java rechargeable battery is not recommended. A non 9.6v rechargeable battery needs that extra .6v to operate the marker correctly.

Trigger frame functions - The trigger has a nice feel. The rubber grip is not slippery like the first generation grips. Let alone not being 2 seperate panels. What comes on the VS are wrap around grips. Much better in gripping. The angled fore grip is also in the same type of rubber.

Comparison with the ESP grip panel and VS Grip

The buttons on an ESP frame are just that, buttons. However, for the VS markers, it is a rubber enclosed switch to prevent dirt and paint from intruding on the switch. Definitely a plus. Like the ESP, there are 2 buttons. Pressing the upper button will power on/off the marker and should see a red and green LED on the left side of the frame. To turn off, you will need to press and hold for at least 3-seconds until the LED's turn off. This prevents accidental power down during play.

The inside of the grip shows slight differences as compared to an ESP frame. When the frame is first turned on, it is automatically set to safe mode (or safety). Kind of like a safety on a firearm. Pressing the bottom button will turn off the safety. You can turn the safety back on (for walking off the field) by pressing and holding this second button for 1-second until the red LED light comes on.

One will also notice the configuration of the solenoid. It is almost pointing vertical as compared to an ESP being horizontal. If you remove the frame from the body you will notice that the sear is still pivoted in the same way as an ESP.

As mentioned, the VS markers comes standard with electronic eyes for "seeing" if it can fire with a properly seated paintball. You can also turn this on and off. Unlike the Primal with a toggle switch, you can turn on/off the eye by pressing the top button for 1-second. The marker will not fire if it doesn't register a paintball in the breach when the eye is on. The marker will fire no matter what with the eye turned off.

Electronic Eyes - What type of eye is it? a Break Beam or Bounce Beam? For those that do not know what they are, a brief explanation.

A bounce beam (and first generation in eye to paintball recognition) sends an infra red light out of a sensor and detects the reflected light bouncing back from the paintball. When this second sensor (the two sensors are in the same probe) detects that a paintball is in place, the marker fires. This did a good job. But was not always reliable. Since the shell of paintballs are not always bright or infra-red reflective friendly.

A break beam projects a beam from one side of the breach to another sensor on the other side of the breach. When a paintball breaks the light that is projected, this sends a signal to the board in the trigger grip to fire the marker. This is much more reliable than bounce beam as it doesn't depend on the reflectivity of the paintball shell.

So, which does the VS series of markers have? You can breathe a sigh of relief. It is a break beam.

Modes of Fire - There are 2 modes that the VS markers fire at – semi-auto and 3-round burst. These are changed by pressing the lower button for 3-seconds to go from one mode to another. Press for another 3-seconds goes back to the other mode. Beware, the eye mode will not turn on when the marker is in burst mode.

There are no LCD panels to show the status of the marker. Rather, it displays 2 colored LED's to show what mode it is in. The modes are as follows -

That's it! The VS series markers only come with 2 modes of fire - Semi-auto and 3-shot burst. Nothing else. I think this is where the VS comes up short.

Marker lights shown when first turned on.

For you tournament junkies, there is a tournament lock. It is just like the ESP frame. You must open up your trigger frame (left side) and remove the computer jumper located on the board. When it is removed, the marker is locked in semi-automatic mode. The eyes can still be turned on and off as well as the safety.

Enough with the electronics. It is pretty simple in operation once you understand the LED's. Onto the other goodies.

Regulator - The VS's come standard with a regulator that is to adjust between 0-300psi. The manual does suggests a psi between 200-250psi to function properly. The manipulation of pressure is simple. However, the manual does mention that it is a dial regulator. The dial on the regulator is not the regulator. Rather, it is the on/off. A 2-in-1 ASA.

The on/off is basically a valve on a faucet for a sink. Turning it off is basically blocking the flow of water. Turning the valve on will open the valve up allowing air through. In the case of a paintball marker, when the valve is on, the air from the tank to the marker allows the air to travel through.

* - Caution should be mentioned with the use of any on/off device. If you turn to off the ASA, then remove the tank, your marker is still ready to fire as there is air between this and the markers valve. If you are not firing the marker, then slowly turn the on/off to the on position. This will vent the air and degas the marker. Or, simply fire the marker (with no paint and in a safe direction) to degas the marker.

There is a hex set screw beside the on/off dial. This is where you adjust the regulator output. And, you can adjust the regulator while the marker is gassed.

If you are needing to increase the pressure, then you will need to turn this set screw counter-clockwise. To decrease pressure coming from the regulator, turn it clockwise. Be mindful too that adjusting the pressure also changes the velocity. Higher pressure equals higher velocities. I suggest that you adjust the regulator a little bit at a time. Adjust the pressure, then fire a few times to make sure that the regulator is set. Then fire over a chronograph to check velocity to where you need it to be.

Also, for those that put other upgrades on the marker, the holes on the bottom of the grip are NOT typical Kingman configuration. The holes are in line. So feel free to add on an aftermarket drop forward. If you do, however, be prepared to add a new regulator or ASA as the Kingman regulator/ASA will not fit.

Ball Detent - To get to the Ball Detent, one needs to insert the allen wrench into the tiny hole on the side of the eye plate. This will enable you to remove the plate and access the detent. And, if need be, clean the eye area. The VS comes with 2 detents. One on each side. It Should not be too much of an issue as the bolt is grooved to not shave them off too much.

Detents: Left - Spyder; Right - VS

Another neat thing that impressed me is how the eye plate is attached. There is a screw that is held in place in a groove.

The gauge - Past gauges mounted on Spyders, it was always a question as to what the reading is really for. Is the gauge reading the air from the tank? Or is it the output of the Spyder regulator. With the VS, there is no question as to what the reading is due to the placement of the gauge on the vertical adapter. This is the output of the regulator. Remember, the VS markers stock out of the box should be around 200psi. If using CO2, be careful not to over pressurize the marker as the gauge only registers to 300psi. Over that pressure could damage the gauge and give false readings.

Triggers - The VS marker comes in two styles, the VS2 and VS3. I mentioned the differences between them. That being the color, and the type of trigger.

View of the Infinity Trigger top surface.

The Infiniti trigger is very reminiscent of the SnapDragon trigger and that of the trigger I used on my Spyder to Intimidator conversion. Instead of the trigger being, what I call, concave, the bottom portion is convex. It is arcing in the opposite direction. To me, this is very comfortable and provides better surface contact with fingers for faster firing.

Another plus to the Infiniti trigger is that it is adjustable for the front, and rear slack after engaging the switch. No need for an aftermarket trigger. Unless one desires. The stock trigger is adjustable to how the user wants it to feel. The use of an allen wrench in your tool kit will help you adjust it. For the upper adjustment, turn counter clockwise to bring the trigger closer to the switch. Adjusting the bottom screw on the trigger will adjust the continuation after the switch has engaged. A nice feature is the middle adjustment that allows adjustment to the switch contact itself.

Why all of these adjustments? For those that like a stiff trigger feel, adjust the middle to the minimum position. Then the top to its max to bring the trigger closer in the pulled position. Adjust the bottom to stop the back travel. Then the middle as needed. For softer feel, do the opposite. The trigger toe does utilize a spring. Having a very light trigger could feel mushy. And too strong could hinder a fast string of paint down range. But everybody is different and this trigger helps customize the feel of the marker.

Another plus is the adjustment of the Infiniti trigger without needing to remove the trigger frame from the body.

For those with the VS3 marker, that comes with the Rocking trigger, adjustment is also just as easy to please the individual. Again, using a hex wrench from your tool kit that came with your marker, you can adjust the set screws that are located on the trigger. The two set screws closest to the pivot point will change the distance from the switch. The two set screws furthest from the pivot point changes the stop distance after the switch is engaged.

Many have expressed the dislike for the rocking trigger. Mainly because you need to place your hand just right on the grip so that you can manipulate the trigger correctly. Here is my personal suggestion on the trigger. Don't set the set screws/trigger equally balanced. Set the top setting to max and the bottom to the minimum. Reason is, your index finger is not so strong as your middle. So reducing the travel of the top, you are making the index finger work less/easier. For those that shoot with your middle finger at the top and 3 finger (not counting the thumb), then set the minimum point at the top. Your 4th finger is the weakest as compared to the middle finger.

Another suggestion, for those that will switch out the micro switches and change for a weaker one (25g switch), I suggest you only change the one. And the placement of that weaker switch should be for the weaker finger. Again, for making it easier for that finger to pull the trigger. Also, the stronger switch will snap the trigger the other way, thus helping your weaker trigger.

The Rocking trigger for some takes some time to get used to if they are use to a conventional trigger. Some may just not like it. It is personal opinion. If you do have a chance to try it out, try it with the suggestions for adjustments I made above. You just may like it.

Bolt and Rear Internals - The VS markers comes standard with a Delrin bolt. AND, can be removed without the bottom tube needing to be torn down at the same time. A great thought for those that wants to clear a ball break by not shooting. Which is the typical solution other than removing the barrel and its many many threads. Just pull up on the cocking knob. It is not screwed in. Like the Electra, the cocking knob is held in place by a spring and ball bearing. This is also great for quick maintenance as the only time that you really need to look at the striker is to lube/inspect the o-ring.

The bolt is really nicely designed. It is now a harsh 90* bend for air flow. It is an easy rounded radius to improve air flow.

Bolts: L to R: AKA Lightening, Stock Spyder, VS

In order to get to the lower tube for general maintenance, you will need to remove the bolt, again by pulling out (not unscrewing) the cocking knob. This will allow the bolt to come out. Then the rear screw on the grip frame needs to be unscrewed. This is what is holding the back cap in place. Remember, hold the back cap down as you remove this screw. The main spring is under tension. Especially if in the cocked position. The spring will shoot the cap, spring and guide out! When these are removed, the striker should slide right out.

This screw holds the velocity adjustor in place.

A new thing for the VS is the 2nd striker buffer. There is one between the striker and the velocity cap. The other is between the valve and the striker. In Spyders, the pin spanning perpendicular between the striker and valve body has been eliminated. This should, and does, reduce the internal clank heard when firing the marker. It also softens the impact between the striker and valve body and pin.

Trigger screw unscrewed to allow bottom tube internals extraction.

When installing the lower internals, do the opposite of the order the parts came out. With the striker, the sear of the trigger will keep it from going all the way in. You can either turn on the frame and turn off the eye, firing the marker while pushing the striker down. Or, remove the frame to allow for the striker to clear the sear that would be sticking up through the slot of the body.

Main spring comparison

Because you are now about to remove the bolt by itself without the need for the lower internals to be removed at the same time, you should be aware that the striker needs to be positioned correctly. The connection with the bolt needs to be done when the cocking knob is inserted. I suggest placing the striker in, then you should be able to insert the cocking pin without bolt so that you can slide the striker into the uncocked position. Remove the cocking knob. Insert all of the other items of the lower tube and secure with the trigger frame screw. Replace bolt and cocking knob.

A side note. Do not lube the bolt as this can cause swelling. My experience with delrin, and despite claims that it will not swell, it does.

The maker does come with a conventional velocity adjuster. This is the hex screw on the back, bottom tube. Using the hex wrench, turn clockwise to increase. This will place more tension on the main spring and hit the valve open harder. To decrease the velocity, turn this adjuster counter clockwise. An interesting note is that the adjuster will not unscrew completely. Something good to hear by those loosing them on the field and replacing it with a bolt from a hardware store. As mentioned above, another way to adjust the velocity is via the regulator. Adjust the regulator for velocity adjustment if you have a long distance to change. Then use the velocity adjuster for fine tuning.

Another difference in design is in the striker. It is much shorter than an original Spyder. And weighs considerably less.

Front Internals - A common problem for any marker is for a cup seal to go bad. And one will need to do a general maintenance to switch it out for a new one. The VS is a little more involved with switching out the cup seal.

Unplug the top connector for the eyes.

To get to the front lower internals and thus to the cup seal, you will need to get into the trigger frame and disconnect the eyes from the electronic board. This should allow for you to remove the trigger frame. The air line can also be removed from one of the air fittings by pushing on the metal disk on the fitting and carefully pulling on the air line. Pull out the cocking knob to allow for the bolt and lower internals to be removed. Remember, the back screw of the trigger frame is what is holding the lower rear internals in place. Hold down the velocity adjustor as the main spring is under tension when you remove this screw.

Towards the front of the marker on the underside of the body is a screw. This holds the VA in place. The VA should come straight out along with the valve spring. On a standard Spyder, the valve spring may have the valve pin attatched. On the VS, you are about 2/3rds to getting to the cup seal. The valve pin is built into the valve body because of the new design.

The picture below shows a comparison of a Spyder Fenix (left) and the VS Marker (right). You will notice that the exhaust for the striker is now 3 holes further down versus a single hole closer to the VA on the Spyder. This definitely will assist on recocking. Other than that, the bodies appear the same. However, there are some differences. Like if you wanted to attach an ESP frame to the marker. It will not be flushly mounted due to some sizing of the top surface of the trigger. And, the bottom plane of the body of the VS is flat. Where standard Spyders are rounded.

It would appear from the picture below that the valve spring is the same size as a compact valve spring.

The next screw down from the VA screw on the underside of the body is a set screw that holds the valve in place. As with the valves for Spyders, extreme care should be taken if one chooses to remove the valve. Use a wooden dowel or the eraser end of a pencil to push the valve out the front end of the marker. Do this carefully as you do not want to scratch the body and cause air leaks.

The picture below shows the various valves. From top to bottom: VS, stock Spyder, Maddmann Rocket, AKA Tornado. The actual valve body of the VS is shorter than the other valve bodies. And has the same size hole that allows air to enter into the bolt. Also notice to the right of the VS valve another buffer. This is attached to the valve extension.

The parts of the complete valve

Views of the valve body

Views of the valve extension

For some reason, the instruction manual explains that you need to twist apart the valve body in order to remove the cup seal. You can remove the cup seal from this point. The only reason that I see for breaking apart the valve body is to inspect and change the o-rings that are internal. Reassembly is simply a reverse of how you got to this point. Don't forget to install the valve correctly. A little more idiot proof with the body extension needing to go in first. The cupseal is thread locked in place.

Also don't forget those striker buffers in the right places. And the buffers are the different sizes.

The cup seal area has been redesigned to help with better sealing/seating. The picture below shows the valve in the open position (left) and then closed (right). The valve body face is chamfered to allow for the cup seal to be centered.

The valve extension is basically a hollow tube. There are 4 grooves on the outside of the extension. And nothing on the inside.

The Body Kits

Kingman has produced colored body kits to replace the stock black parts to provide a unique look. These highlights are:

• Striker Plug
• Low Pressure Chamber
• Fore grip Riser
• Metal eye covers
• Feed neck clamp ring

The packaging is pretty fancy for a sport that is rugged. They are in a black box with a clear window showing the color of the items. On the back, shows where the accesories will be placed.

There is also available a anodized barrel tip to increase the barrel length to 14". This will replace the stock tip with a matching color as your body kit. Pictured below is the stock tip (top), the Body Kit Barrel Tip (bottom), and the stock bore (middle).

And, there is also a barrel that matches the look of the VS markers that is 14" long that is all black. This is simply a longer barrel tip.

Changing the stock highlights for the body kit parts is pretty easy. And, really up to the individual if they what to use all the parts or not. The body parts simply unscrew from the various areas on the marker. You will need to wrestle with the macro-airline in order to switch out the foregrip. And to remove the back trigger frame screw to switch out the striker plug/velocity adjustor.

Shooting the VS2 & VS3

In short, both the VS2 and VS3 markers shoot identical. The only difference is the type of trigger.

With that said, the marker is very well balanced with a 72ci tank and full hopper of paint. The trigger guard is open enough for those that switch from hand to hand when snap shooting from one side of the bunker to the other.

Because the marker has a center vertical feed (which offers a faster rate of feeding than power feeds), the user cannot aim down the top of the marker. One will need to learn to aim down the side. Which is not too hard to do for many.

The weight is not bad either for a fully loaded marker. It is average weight for a marker of this size. The new carved body look doesn't reduce the weight that much as compared to a standard Spyder.

Changing modes on the fly is not hard. One just needs to remember how they are changed and what the LED means when lit. Changing modes can be done quickly with your thumb.

Unlike some high end markers that are sometimes designed for the right handed shooter, this easily works well for either the left or right hander. Though the LED’s are seen on the left side of the grip panel.

Once I dialed into the fps I like to shoot at which is 285fps, I fired off a few strings. The cycling was nice and smooth. The recoil was not very noticeable.

Turning off the eyes in Semi-auto mode offers faster firing. However, it will offer more potential for ball breaks. The eyes on will have a slightly less rate of fire. But the possibility for a ball break is reduced dramatically.

During my test, I had not experienced a single break with the eyes one. Which is a plus when on the field. Really, with 2 cases in this test, not a single ball break in any mode. No blowback that would hinder the feeding of a standard Spyder.

Final Thoughts

The VS series from Kingman has added a great marker to there line of products. It is not a radical change in design like the EM1 and Raven Primal is. Yet, it is also not a regular Spyder with different accessories on it and called a different name.

I believe Kingman wanted to keep up with trends such as electronic eye sensing to reduce ball breaks and screw clamping feeds and added these features. But has also leaped ahead with a new valve design that reduces the overall operating pressure.

Kingman has also redesigned the look of the marker on the outside. A step up from the re-anodizing of an original Spyder body. Provides a sleeker look. Along with the one-form design to make it look like it was carved from a single piece of aluminum.

The trigger switches are defiantly lighter than the older ones used in the ESP and really do not see a need to replace them.

The body kits are a nice factory upgrade that may see other manufacturers duplicate or even improve. My only fear would be the lack of color matching which is hard with anodizing with the mix of aftermarket parts and Kingman kit parts. Though, it does add a sense of uniqueness.

And excellent on the metal eye covers! Makes this marker more rugged. Along with break beam eyes.

I also like the ability to remove the bolt without needing to remove the lower internals. Makes for cleaning ball breaks easier.

I do not like the revamping of the fore grip connection to the VA. For those that are wanting a different setup via vertical inline regulator, one will need to change the VA as well. Or, an idea for somebody is to make a coupling that will screw onto the fore grip and have female ASA threads. Something that I think will be a good seller. Let alone my personal dislike for a grip mounted Spyder with the restricting air line between that and the markers valve. Increasing the flow via vertical regulator could reduce the psi.

Another down side is the stock bodies versus what trigger frame comes with. Black is a very popular color. But to only have the rocking trigger on the VS3 that is all black and not an option for the VS2 is poor. Some may like the Rocking trigger. Some may not be able to master it.

Also the springs used. This may be something an aftermarket manufacturer may make. Or not.

Bolts are always something that is changed as stock ones are not so good. However, I personally think that the stock is pretty good. I have already considered a design change for the bolt. But really not much of an improvement.

Overall operating of the VS markers is the same as a Spyder. It is an electronically tripped sear to release the striker to fire the marker. It is a blow back and utilizes springs on both the main and valve. However, it does operate on a lower pressure and thus has less of a recoil. Increasing the number of shots per fill. The price is great for the performance. It is comparable, if not better, than if one purchases a low line Spyder and adds LP parts.

Since this is an electronic operated marker, I would suggest 2 items for the end user: 1) an electronic loader like a 12v Revolution or Halo (Kingman suggest a force feed or high speed loader on page 2 of the manual); and 2) HPA/N2. You could use CO2, and since it is a low pressure marker, you should do well with it. However, with the potential for high rates of fire, HPA or N2 will be best as it is a more stable gas. Liquid CO2 entering the new valve can bust 2 more o-rings as compared to the 2 on a standard Spyder. Kingman also recommends only use HPA or N2.

So, how do I rate the VS series of markers from Kingman? Whether you are new to the sport, or a tournament player, I think this should be a marker that should be in consideration. For performance out of the box, potential for new aftermarket parts and a company that has been around for some time, Kingman certainly has placed effort, ideas and quality in providing a stable playing platform to you, the player.