I have gotten a few emails reguarding how to install a 50g switch into the Kingman ESP/Sprint frames. Even though it is pretty much on the easy side to install, there are some unkowns. I hope to cover everything on this article.

The stock Kingman microswitch behind the trigger takes approximately 250g to produce a click. This click activates the electronics on the marker that fires the paintball. For many, this is fine. For others, having the desire for a lighter trigger pull is a want.

There is a simple drop in microswitch that only requires 50g of pressure to close the current. Many like this as one could tap on the side of the trigger to activate it.

Remove all air and paint prior to doing this modification. Read the instructions through. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for a trigger modification. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

In this article, I discuss -

• Tools Needed
• Disassembly
• Installation

Tools Needed

What you need to do this project is a 50g switch, hammer, metal pin, and solder. Solder is not needed as you could open the switch housing and transfer the parts. One other item, a Kingman ESP or Sprint frame.

A 50g switch can be found online at a few places. But for quicker service and to recieve the right product, contact DRAGON on the Kingman forum or Neroboro. At the time of this article, these switches were around $10.00 plus shipping.

The other item needed is a hammer and pin. The pin should be small enough to push the two securing pins that is holding the switch in the frame. I used an allen wrench. Works fine.

Disassembly

You will need to remove 3 pins. One holds the trigger in place. The other two pins hold the microswitch in place.

Disassembly of the trigger and switch are pretty easy. Like all pins in the Kingman frames, there is a smooth side and a star or pointed side. You need to tap out the pin from the smooth side. And it could take a few heavy whacks.

You will need to remove 3 pins. One holds the trigger in place. The other two pins hold the microswitch in place.

When removing the trigger, the spring may be attached. If not, look for it. This is important. The spring is what returns the trigger to the neutral position.

You will also need to unplug the connector from the electronic board. This will provide you with more slack to work with. If you do not unplug this connector, you run the risk of accidently pulling the wires out. It will also protect the electronic board if you decide to go the soldering route.

With the trigger removed, this allowed me to pull the switch. I could have taken the switch through the frame. That would require more work. The setscrew that keeps the wires out of the way will need to be removed.

I went the soldering route of the switch installation. Becareful when using a soldering iron as it is very hot. I used the tip to melt the wires off of the existing switch and to clean off excess solder from the wires. As a side not, as you heat the switch, anything metal will conduct the heat. This includes the wires. Becareful not to burn yourself.

Installation

When you get the wires off, do make sure that the ends are clean. If there is extra solder or dirt, it may not stay in place. When clean, I twisted the wire end to make sure there were no wire frays.

Attaching the wires is pretty simple. Look at the switch, there are 3 terminals. One has a 'C' next to it. Depending what basic electrical knowledge you have, it can mean common or close terminal. The one in the middle may have an S1. This middle terminal is what sends the current when the switch is pressed, or closes the circuit. The other terminal (S2?) is not used. However, if you attach the wire to this terminal and not to S1, you will close the circuit when you release the trigger. Not on the pull.

A side note, you can essentially have a reactive type trigger if you utilize both S terminals. Basically, with a trigger pull, the marker will fire as well on the trigger release. Caution should be used. This can offer a faster ROF, but may not give the proper time for the electronics to recharge for activating the solenoid. Also, in tournament play, this is not legal.

After the wires are soldered, let things cool down. Hook up the connector to the electronic board and test the switch out. Best to test it now, then when everything is installed.

When the wires are attached and all checks out, replace the switch into the frame. The button should be on the lower side of the unit when in place. Also, make sure when replacing the pins, you are putting them on the correct side. The star end should be on the same side as how they were removed. Not doing this can result in pins always falling out.

Replace the trigger, taking note of the star end of the pin is inserted in the correct side. Your done! As I said, it is pretty simple. Take your time and don't rush things.