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OtterSC Notes: This is not my information. This is that of an unknown person. I do not know who (s)he is or the email address. I thought I would copy that information to preserve the idea of turning a blow-back Spyder into a closed bolt marker like the AutoCocker. The original site is here. I have seen a few sites with good information disappear. If the person recognizes the originator of this information, please contact me so that I can give proper authorship.
As mentioned above, this is not my creation. But of somebody elses. This, as of the time of this writing, is the only documented 'how-to' to turn a Spyder open bolt into a closed bolt marker like the AutoCocker. Matter of fact, most of the parts used is from an AutoCocker. I will eventually make one for myself when time permits. When I do, I may make drawings of the parts I made/modified. A basic concept of how an AutoCocker works will help greatly in this project. Once you have an understanding of this, positioning the pneumatics will make sense. Look at the animation below to see the pneumatics at work.
For a closed bolt to work, the marker needs to load a paintball, close the bolt, and cock the marker to prepare it to fire. The above animation shows the 3 common parts needed for this feat. The top piece is called the 'Ram'. The middle piece is called the '3-way Valve'. The bottom piece is called the 'Low Pressure Regulator (LPR)'. All of this is connected by microline.
Air enters into the LPR by the air source. This will regulate the air pressure that the marker uses down to a useable pressure that the pneumatics will use. From marker to marker, it varies. 90psi is what the EM1 and Bushmaster uses. You want just enough to allow the ram to move all of the components. It doesn't matter what the input pressure is into the marker. The LPR will take what it can get and regulate it.
The LPR feeds the regulated air into the center of the 3-way. Small o-rings is what keeps the air inside the 3-way. The 3-way is connected in some fashion to the trigger. The air that enters the 3-way is directed into the ram. The ram is connected to a 'back block' that is connected to the bolt and a cocking rod.
In the animation, when you see the word 'Pull', that means the trigger is pulled back. Notice the travel of the 3-way and how the air is directed from the front to the back microline. As the 3-way seals one hole, pressure is released from the other end and exited out of the 3-way. Also notice that the air is constantly entering from the LPR into the center no matter what position the 3-way is in.
When the air is switched from the right side of the ram to the left side. The air pushes the ram to the right. Remember, the ram is connected to the back block. When back, it loads a paintball and cocks the marker, all in one motion. When you release the trigger, the trigger spring returns the trigger into the start position. It also switches the 3-way. Thus, changes the pressure in the ram and moves it accordingly.
The speed of the paintball is dictated by the pressure of the air into the marker (not the LPR). A regulator is needed for this.
Think about this. The 3-way is the brain, the LPR is the stomache, and the Ram is the muscle. The LPR gathers food (the air). This food is fed to the brain. The brain tells the muscle to push, or pull. Hope that simplifies the pneumatic part.
The only issue that you need to be aware of is timing. If you set the pneumatics that would move the bolt back before the paintball is fired, not gonna have good performance. However, you do not want a long delay from the time the marker is fired (the sear releases the hammer to hit the valve pin) and the 3-way is switched, if at all, to cock the marker. Timing requires patience and trial and error.
The above are my notes that one needs to be aware of and a basic understanding of how an AutoCocker works. When the Cocker first came out, it was not auto-cocking. It was a pump. The pneumatics is the pump. Now, onto the reference material...
A. Stock Block (After)
B. Original Pneumatic Set
C. New 4way adaptor
D. New Ram adaptor
E. Rear Block was fabricated from aluminum bicycle neck thingy
This keeps the timing rod straight and smooth...
1. Back block
(I used an old bicycle neck part)
2. 4way Mount
3. Ram Mount
4. Hammer Sleeve
5. Spring Block
and 4way threads were utilized to fabricate the adapter parts.
2 stock Spyder bolts were fliped and screwed together to make
one long bolt. The sleeve that slips inside the hammer is threaded
for a stock WGP cocking rod. The cocker spring block was made
from an aluminum shifter knob.
old cocking knob threads. Spring block (stop) is threaded on both sides.
A hole was drilled in center to allow the cocking rod to move freely.
The Ram adapter lock slot secures the Ram adapter from moving.
I took my time here...using an aluminum handle bar mount from an
old discarded bicycle. A hacksaw, drill and upside down belt sander
is what I used..taking my time I triple checked fit for every step.
perfectly the cocking rod length..the exixting adjuster knob on the
rod helps further fine tune this step.
The cocking pull is smooth as glass working just like a cocker.
I still need to add the low pressure hose's and the timing rod collar.
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I hope that you find this information useful to your paintball experience. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me. Contact page. |