OtterSC Notes: I received an email in April 2003 from an Ian Zeigle asking if I would like to see a SpyderCocker that he had made and dubbed SpyderCocker One. I said, "Sure, why not". He was kind enough to provide instructions on how to make a SpyderCocker and provided pictures to go along with it. For sometime, the only documented SpyderCocker 'how-to' was located at this site and was copied by me to my site for posterity. This was more of a picture based 'how-to' for making one. And, do not forget the Electro SpyderCocker that was inspired by the original. Now, I like to offer a more text based 'how-to' of making a non-electro SpyderCocker.

Spydercocker One Semi-Detailed Instructions Sheet

By - Ian Zeigle

Currently this gun has not been converted to LP it is in the final stages of completion. Im still waiting for my 3way microline. And various LP parts (valves, striker, reg, etc.)

Parts Needed/Used:

Spyder One was purchased at a pawn shop. Spyder Compact 2000 double trigger frame (optional) was added. Two Spyder stock side cocking bolts (one came with the Spyder One). Or, you could use a rear cocking bolt of choice. Back block hole will vary. Most of the other items were purchased from Ebay. Others from local shops and online retailers.

The M60 Fuse Igniter Pin is used for quick bolt strip pin. You could use a clevis or cotter pin since they can come in stainless steel and various diameters.

Tools Needed/Used:

• Dremel Tool
• Thin, Long Pliers for removing Venturi from stock bolts (Optional)
• Drill Press
• Drill Press Machining vise $10.00 (Harbor Frieght). This is a very good investment for more precise holes.
• 8" long round steel file $2.00 (Harbor Frieght). Used for fine filing on tight fitting screw/bolt holes.
• Flat steel file.
• Hack saw with fine teeth blades.
• Drill bit set. Various sizes. (Stock bolt back block hole is 11/16" bit size).
• Sand paper 400 grit and 600 fine grit. For bolt/striker polishing (Optional) and block polishing.
• Tap/die set:
• 10-32 tap for taping cocking rod
• 6-32 tap for ram to rear block hole
• 5/16-24 Tap for ram to ram side block
• 6-32 Die for trigger 3way rod

Those are the parts/tools used for this modification. Use your imagination, it does not have to use the same parts/ideas.

Pre-Work #1:

If you are going to use the 2 stock bolts hooked together, I suggest you do it first. If not go to Pre-Work #2. Otherwise, heres what you do. Take your 2 stock bolts, make sure they are from simular guns, ie. 2 Spyder Ones/ 2 Spyder Compacts. If a bolt is from a Spyder, it will work. What Ian is trying to say is use bolts that are of the same design. In this case, side cocking stock bolts. I have several spyder compacts with upgraded bolts; so I used them. If they are not similar, I notice that the Spyder One bolt hooked to a Spyder Compact bolt had a small lip were they connected? This could cause major errors! I removed the venturi with a pair of very thin pliers. This is optional. Now, go ahead and polish your striker and 2 bolts, just the area were they have friction in the Spyder body (optional). After this, wash and polish your bolt and striker. Take your 2 bolts, get a screw (or use the ones supplied to connect your striker plug) that fits into that hole in the back where, either your striker connector is or your rear cocking hole adapter is. Red Loctite the thread in back on one side, put lock tight in the hole on the back of the other bolt and thread them together. Tada!! A rear cocking bolt!!

Pre-work 2:

Okay, This is where you will hook up your 3-way "T" to your marker. Grab Yo gun!! Take off that stupid bottom line adapter and the standard to metric adapter. Take the 3-way "T" and teflon wrap the male end (2 wraps should be good). Screw this into your marker. Take your LPR and teflon wrap the threads. Screw this onto the front female end. Now teflon wrap your vertical adapter and screw it into the bottom of the female "T".

Now, Take your thumb velocity/external velocity piece. Take a hacksaw and cut off the end so it is level with the back. It will still be able to thread in and out, sand/file/polish this nice and flat. (see fig p3) Bam!! You got 1/4 of the project out of the way.

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Step 1:

RAM Mount. Once you have all of your parts, you need to make your Ram mount. What I did was set my Spyder rear on a small size aluminum plate and traced the curves of my Spyder body and added an extra bit for the ram to be taped in to (see Fig 1).

The best way to do this is have a small pre-drilled hole for your ram's arm to go through, keep your ram tight against the Spyder body and trace the complete part. Make sure you make a flat area were your screw will go.

Also, it doesn't matter what side you set it up on, its personal preference. But everything must be compatible. You can either drill and tap your ram hole first, or you can cut it out then tap it, either way it sucks. I cut mine out first. I would probably had drilled and tap it if I had to do it again. Drill the holes use the machining vice to hold parts. Keep em straight!!! Tap the ram hole with a 5/16-24 tap. The drill bit size is always smaller then the actual tap. I did tests for what bit worked the best on a scrap aluminum block. Now set the ram block onto your Spyder and mark where your hole is on your back thumb adjuster piece. Drill this hole so your screw will fit into it. Be careful!!! This is hard because it needs to be perfect. Thread your ram on and attach the block w/ ram to your Spyder. Does it fit right? If not, start again.

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Step 2:

Back block. You will make the rear block the same way you made your ram block. Set your Spyder's rear on the plate. Now put your ram block (With out the ram) onto your plate against the Spyder. Trace your entire rear of Spyder, but go around your ram block also. That way, you will have room for your ram rod. If you are going to make this cock from the side and rear, you will need to add a little extra to the back block right below where the ram sits. Cut it out.

Now mark the center of your back block were your bolt will be. Drill a small size pilot hole in the center. Then mark where your quick strip bolt will be on your block. Notice the flat edge on the back block? (see picture above and below)

This is where your quick strip pin hole will be drilled. Use the machining vice!!! Keep this very straight and go very slow. I recommend using a small bit and go larger till it is correct. Now if you are using two stock bolts connected to each other, drill an 11/16" hole in the center were your pilot hole is. This will be your semi-finished Back block.

Now slide your bolt into the hole. If it is tight use a round file to make the hole a little bigger. Connect your ram and block to your Spyder. Put your bolt into your gun and put your back block on it. Take some paint, dab it onto the end of the ram rod and slide your bolt and back block into it. This will mark your hole were your ram rod goes on the back block.

Drill in the center of the paint mark. If you want to tap this it should be a 6-32 tap, make sure you use the right drill bit!! Every 6-32 tap I used broke!! Thus ruining my work!!! I had to start over. Lots of cursing and throwing thingy's!!! When I use a tap, I will turn it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then back it out. It is a slow process. But you may reduce the tap from breaking. Oh, and make sure you are straight. I said screw it and just drilled the hole to the same size as the ram rod. I used two 6-32 bolts to keep my ram connected to my back block. After this, connect your ram rod up to your back block. Get your bolt lined up so that it is all the way forward, where it would be if you had it hooked to your striker and pushed forward. Best way to do this is slide your striker connector rod into your bolt and put it in as far as it will go in your gun. Drill through the bolt out using your back block quick strip pin as a guide. You now have a quick strip pin installed in your bolt and back block.

You can now discard your striker connecting rod. Do not hook your SpyderCocker together with this in.

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Step 3:

Side cocking rear cocking conversion. To make your Spyder cock from the rear. To do this, take your Spyder stock side cocking screw. Mark where the cocking rod will sit on the screw. Drill and tap your side cocking screw to use a 10-32 tap.

Put some paint on the end of your cocking rod and slide your back block, bolt, and ram into the cocking rod. This will make your mark for where to drill the cocking rod hole on the back block. This hole does not have to be perfect; it can be drilled bigger for less friction. Put some paint on your velocity adjuster and mark the same way. Or you can just cut that area out.

You have now completed your back block.

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Step 4:

3-Way Valve Block. Now to make your 3-Way valve block. To do this, take the aluminum plate. Drill a pilot hole in it the size of the 3way's internal pin. Set your 3-Way on the plate with your pin in the hole. Trace around the valve a little larger then the actual threads. Make an arm so it can be connected to your front trigger screw. Cut it out.

This is what the semi-finished product should look like. Now drill your hole for where it will sit on your front trigger screw hole. Drill the hole for the 3-Way were your pilot hole is. I think the tap size is 1/2-32 but nobody carried that size. So what I did was drilled it just barely smaller then the 3-Way filed it a little bit bigger. When I could almost get it into the hole, I Red loctit put it on the threads. I put a piece of wood between the 3way and the piece in a vice and scrunched it in. If you can find a tap, use it! It's probably safer! Now screw this up onto your gun on the front trigger screw hole.

Decide where you want to drill your trigger rod hole. Remove your trigger from its frame and drill. Be careful, if you are using the double trigger from a Spyder compact. You can screw it up!

I drilled my hole too far back and drilled into the trigger sear catch area. The trigger would no longer catch the sear. (One could cut out a small portion of the frame to allow for clearance if it did not foul any of the internal trigger mechanisms) So I did another hole. After you have your hole drilled, take your 3-Way trigger rod and connect it to the 3-Way pin. Unscrew the rod from the pin connector and decide were you should cut it. Make sure your pin is all the way forward when you decide; you don't want your trigger rod to short. After cutting, take a 6-32 die and make your threads on the non-bent side. Remove your 3way block and valve, screw the new modified rod onto the pin connector and put it back on your gun. Put the bent end of the trigger rod into your trigger hole while doing this. Try your trigger. Is it smooth? if not try to widen the trigger hole a little.

YAH!!! It is almost done!!!

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Step 5:

Tweaking. This is almost done. Take a couple paintballs and put them in the feed. Cock the gun and then see if the paintball falls in, if it does not, you will have to adjust the back block back more so it will pull your bolt farther out. This is a good advantage of having 2 nuts hold your ram rod to the back block cause you can adjust it easily. Once this is correct, push your bolt and block all the way forward, slowly release your striker by hand. Push your striker all the way forward so that it is in full contact with your valve. Does your rod disable you from moving your striker all the way forward? This is bad, you will have to use additional screws to keep the rod at a good length or make a stock-cocking rod out of steel. Die both sides to a 10-32 thread. Connect your microline and try it out. The SpyderCocker one is complete.

Test:

Because I do not have my microline yet, I tested my gun by manual working the ram, I cocked it, pulled my back block back, dropped in a PB, pushed the ram forward. Fired. Bam!! It works. The air flows correctly through the 3-Way. The only problem with testing it this way was I had to plug the 3 way air holes.

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