This is a review on the Sundragon Paintball Products and Supplies trigger for Spyders. There are two versions of the trigger that is a direct replacement for the Kingman ESP frame. These triggers are affectionately called Snapdragon and Dragon's Tail. These triggers are specifically for the ESP Kingman trigger frames that are found on all electronic markers from Kingman. These will also work with those that have added this e-frame to there mechanical body markers. It is not for the mechanical trigger frames.

There are plenty of triggers that are available for the ESP frames. CheckIt makes the Sweetspot trigger. Fireball Mountain makes a trigger. And a few others that are trying to get into the market. I have tried several of these triggers. So I hope in this review, I am able to provide a comparison with this trigger I recieved from Sundragon.

After speaking to the Owner of Sundragon and discusing my needs for a trigger, I settled on and recieved the SPPS Snapdragon Magno-Trigger. Shipping was fast with no delay. The postmark date was the day after I last spoke to them and 3 days later I recieved the package from them. It came with the trigger inside of a zip lock bag. The trigger also came with installation and adjustment instructions.

The instructions were alittle hard to get out since it was a 8.5" x 5.5" piece of paper folded into 3rds, both ways, to fit in a 3"x2" zip lock bag along with the trigger. The instructions were small print, I am guessing 8pt text size. The instruction sheet also included an isometric diagram of the installed magnet, a feature that is not found in any trigger on the market. At the top of the sheet is the title of the trigger. Right below that is a warning to read ALL of the instructions before proceeding. This is good advise for those that have never done this modification of removing the trigger from an ESP frame.

Even though I have had much experience with markers, I looked over the instructions for completeness. The instructions cover everything from taking out the pin that is holding the trigger in place to how to attach the magnet in the frame. Almost too much detail. It explained everything in a step-by-step manner.

At the end reveals instructions on the adjustment of the trigger for increasing and decreasing the slack before and after the switch is engaged. And, there is also a small blurb on an optional purchase of a 50g switch that can be purchased from them to potentially increase the rate of fire. The stock switch has a resistance of 250g needed to activate the switch. I have mentioned the installation of this product on my site.

The trigger itself is made of aluminum that is anodized black. It also comes with all the set screws for all or your adjustments. The magnets are also unique. I think it is better than what I discus in my magnetic trigger return article. In that article I call for round magnets that can be found at places like Radio Shack. The magnets I recieved with my Snapdragon needs no drilling as it is already low profile..

The triggers from Sundragon have been out longer than FBM that offers a similar design. That being an convex shape instead of the concave trigger you may see on others. The stock trigger on the older ESP's has two small concave areas that are perfect for two fingers to rest in. The convex design I first experienced was in the Spydamator (Spimmy) conversion when I purchased the Critical Trigger for the Intimidator frames. The outward curve offers more surface area for your fingers to walk on.

What does Walk mean in paintball? What I mean by that is it is a term used for how one pulls the trigger. Many paintball players have there own style that is compfortable to them when firing there marker. You may have a telephone book that is printed by Yellow Book. There little logo has a hand walking over a book. Same concept for paintball. Instead of walking over pages, you are walking the trigger.

The installation was easy. I have done this to many markers that have come through my shop. Some may need a few good hard whacks to loosen the pin. But they do come out. Make sure to use a nail or an old allen wrench that is smaller than the pin so as to not damage the frame. and make sure that you are hitting on the smooth pin side to remove the trigger. Hitting the star side of the pin can potentially damage the trigger.

According to the instructions, Sundragon suggests using a slow curing epoxy or tape to temporarily hold the magnet in the frame to test for clearance. The instructions do not say anything about if there is not a proper fit or clearance. I would assume, and through my experience, some drilling of sorts will be needed. Or revert to my magnet trigger return article that I mention earlier using a different magnet. Though, I would have to say that the choice of the magnet that comes with the Sundragon triggers will fit in the frame without any problem.

During my test fit, I did not use tape or slow curing epoxy. Just let the magnets attract eachother and fitted the trigger into the frame. I put in the pin to hold it in it's proper place and pulled the trigger. No binding. There was enough clearance.

Removed the trigger and cleaned the area that the magnet will set inside of the frame. Then added some Gorilla Glue. I am sure you could use other quick drying cement like crazy glue. The magnet that comes with the trigger has an 'X' on it. This 'X' should be visable when attaching the magnet into the frame. This is an easy indicator to keep the magnet facing the correct way. Remember, the purpose of the magnet in the trigger is to assist in trigger return.

Once I inserted the magnet into the frame, I placed an allen wrench or other metal object that magnets attached to and placed it on the otherside of the frame to hold it in place. The magnet will not attract to the frame since it is aluminum casting. The metalic object will pull the magnet against the frame and secure it in place as the glue sets. Fast drying cement or epoxy will hold the magnet. But I personally like to wait an hour or two to make sure it is completly dry.

When the glue is dry, I now install the trigger to finalize the installation. I place the trigger into the frame and line up the hole. I then insert the trigger pin into the star side of the frame, inserting the smooth side first. Then tap the pin into place. The installation is done. Very easy. I am sure if you follow the instructions that is provided, you should not have any worries.

Testing the trigger was impressive to me. Again, each paintballer has there own style of shooting. I still prefer the single finger pulling technique. But I myself am learning to walk the trigger.

Comparing this trigger to the CheckIt Sweetspot and other similar straight triggers yeilded a big difference. Those that were straight produced a nice feel for those that prefer walking the trigger from any point on the trigger. They also provide front and rear adjustment of the trigger when activating the switch.

The replacement trigger from Sandragon would be the same. Except that it has curved surface area that is convex. For me, this allows a faster walk on the trigger even though you are limited to the mid to lower portion of the trigger. It feels just like the Critical Trigger on my Spydamator. Also, what the other triggers do not come with is a magnetic trigger return. This enables you to leave out the trigger spring and provides a smoother return.

I deeply enjoy this trigger. Of all the triggers that I currently have, this is by far my favorite. They may have competition with FBM curved trigger. However, I do believe that they are superior to the APC and CheckIt straight triggers that are available if you are the type of player that walks the trigger.

Service is great. They are ontop on there emails. And offer good products. If you are looking for a new feel in triggers, I hope that the Sandragon series of triggers is in your list for consideration.