The Spyder offers many different configurations to setup the way that air is fed to the marker. Many are a personal preference. What I will discuss is the many pieces that are used and the possible setups that you can have. This article is my suggestions and opinions. Feel free to do something a little different. It is your marker. Have fun with it. I will not discuss the difference between CO2 and Nitro. For that, see my F.A.Q. for information on those gases.

Here is a list of things that I will cover in this article...

Air Lines and Air Fittings

Bottomline Setup

Cradles and Drop Forwards

Remote Setup

Expansion Chamber Setup

Gas Through Setup

Regulator Setup

Anti-Siphon Tube

Air is the heart of any marker. With out air, you will be more effective with a slingshot. So, getting the air from the tank to the marker is important. Just what is the best? Well, what it really comes down to is personal preference. All of the items are effective. It really is how you want your marker set up. There are many decisions on your part that you need to consider and hope to cover them as best I can.

Air Lines and Air Fittings

There are three different types of air lines that you can use. Microline, macroline, and stainless steel braid.

Microline is basically a plastic tube that can be cut to any length and easily replaceable. The can be bought in many different colors. When it comes time for maintenance of your marker, simply release one end of the air line from the fitting so that is not dangling with whatever is attached. Push on the fitting to release the air line. These are durable under pressure. But they do have their limit. Over time or with extreme environments, these can weaken and either crack or burst. They also require a specific air fitting to attach these. These air fittings have o-rings inside them to ensure a good seal. These are also very air restrictive. I do not suggest these.

Macroline is identical to microline except that these have a larger inside diameter. In other words, there not air restrictive. They still have their weakness. But the air line is cheap enough that you can buy a few feet and keep it in your tool box incase of cracks.

For the microline and macroline, air-fitting elbows have small o-rings inside. On occasion, like most o-rings, they will need replaced. Keep them moist with oil to ensure proper sealing. To replace the air line, all you do is push down on the top portion of the fitting and pull out the air line. Replace with one the same length. After you cut the size you need, be good to sand any sharp edges of the air line so that you don't cut into the o-rings when you insert the air line. These can be found is a straight or 90* configuration.

Steel braid is the toughest available. It lasts longer than the other two air lines. However, they're available in certain lengths. They also are one color, silver. The air flow is probably the best. And, as I mentioned before, it is the toughest. I am using one that is 10 years old and no problems at all. To seal them with the connections, simply add some teflon tape that can be found in the plumbing section of hardware stores to the threads. To find the right size you need, measure from the point your taking the air line from to the point you want to connect to and add 1-2". Find a place that sells an air line closest to what you measured. Most places sell even length air lines.

For the stainless steel braid air fitting elbows, all you do is screw the pieces together to form the air passage. Pretty straight forward. No need to overly tighten them with your wrench. If for some reason there is a need to replace the air line, you will need to get out the wrenches. Maintenance is a little cumbersome since it is a "permanent" attachment. You may have a trigger frame dangling there while you work on your marker. There is what is called quick disconnects. These are two types of air fittings that connect to each other. One piece will screw onto the air line. The other piece screws onto the elbow. They snap together. Very useful during maintenance. Just pull apart.

Some of these air fittings are made of brass, some that is brass that are plated silver (most common), and aluminum. There is stainless steel ones, but not very common. They're all made the same and serve the same purpose. You will do fine with the plated ones. But, if you want color, you can add anodized aluminum ones. And add to the expenses for that color. About double the price between the plated and colored.

These fittings are also in three different configurations. Straight, 45*, and 90*. Most often when you add a regulator, the hole will end up on the side when screwed in all the way. A 90* air fitting will make it easier to connect your air lines. Most attachments are designed to sit in this fashion with the air openings on the side. A 45* is just the right angle to attach a remote to a gas through stock. Straight is great for the air line entering into an attachment with out bends.

The last important item is called the Air Source Adapter (or ASA for short). This ASA is what the air tank screws into. They come in many different designs. These either connect by screws to the bottom of the grip or are vertically mounted elsewhere on the marker like a vertical adapter.

Teflon tape is the prime material to wrap on any threads to keep them from leaking air. It can be found in the plumbing area of hardware stores and places like Wal-Mart. Even automotive stores should have them. You could use a more permanent sealant if you think you will not be changing air fittings. Add teflon tape to all of your threads that deal with air ways. Make sure the threads are clean of any debris before wrapping. This includes any left over old teflon. Wrap 2-4 times tightly around the threads and screw in. The only place not to use it is on tank threads. You will end up replacing the tape every time you take the tank off.

Back to top...

Bottomline Setup

This is for those that do not desire to have an expansion chamber, regulator, or a remote setup. This is for those that wish to use their air tank as a stock. Most markers are already configured this way. That being an air line connected to the bottom of the marker or vertical adapter and runs an air line (micro, macro, or braid) to an ASA on the grip. The air tank your using screws right into this ASA and can be used as a stock.

This is the cheapest way to getting the bulky air tank from the vertical position that is usually in the front of the marker to a more comfortable position under your grip. But, the larger the tank is, the heavier the rear of the marker may feel. Some may not mind this. Others do. Great to us for a gas through stock (discussed later).

Bottomline setup - What you need is an air line of your choice with the appropriate air fittings, an ASA for on the grip, and air fittings. Depending on the ASA being fit onto a Kingman trigger frame, you may need an adapter that will convert the off-set Kingman holes to in-line holes that the rest of paintball industry uses. If you use a Kingman ASA, then no need for an off-set hole adapter. With non-Kingman ASA, you will need a 90* elbow from it. For Kingman, a straight or 45* air fitting will do. Also, if getting an aftermarket air line and connecting to a Kingman ASA, you will need a male metric thread to female standard thread adapter.

To connect into the body of the marker, you will need an adapter that can screw into the ASA (for those that have a vertical adapter) or a male metric to female standard thread adapter. Attach the air line.

Back to top...

Cradles and Drop Forward Setup

At one time, these were two different items. The drop forwards were made for the use of CO2 tanks. Cradles were for N2 tanks. They both had minor design differences for the different tanks. Today, there both basically the same items that can be used interchangeably. Matter of fact, the names can be used interchangeably, too.

What these are is a specialized ASA. Instead of having the placement of the air tank just behind the grip, a cradle will lower and move forward to balance the marker out. Especially with larger heavier tanks. With the tank in this position, it will be less stressful with holding the marker. Like the ASA, if using a Kingman trigger frame, an adapter is needed to convert the off-center holes to in-line holes. There are two drop forwards that already have the proper hole configuration. Those being the Lapco and the PsychoBallistic.

There are many different designs. They all work the same way. So, choose one that appeals to you. Some come with certain lengths that lower and drop a tank. Others, you can adjust how far forward the tank sits. Even side to side of the centerline of the marker when peering from behind the marker. Some will have ASA's. Others will not. Yet others will fit special ASA's that have an on/off knob to turn on and off the air flow from the tank. As I mentioned before, choose one that appeals to you.

Drop Forward setup - What you will need is the basics of the bottomline setup. But instead of an ASA, you will be using a drop forward (or cradle). Though, depending on the drop forward, you still may need to get an ASA. If you can see a picture of the drop forward, and do not see a hunk of metal that a tank would screw into, chances are is that it has no ASA. If this is the case, the best one to get is a "duck bill" type. Or, if it is an adjustable one, there is usually an ASA that is used specifically for it. A 90* air fitting screws into the ASA, finishing the air passage from tank to marker.

Back to top...

Remote Setup

There are both good and bad things about a remote setup. This type of setup is refereed to either a remote setup or an off-gun setup. The bad is that you have this air line from your marker to you tank that is attached to your hip or pack. This air line can get tangled up with the surrounding environment or even you. Because of being tangled up, your maneuverability can be slowed some. Also, CO2 users with an anti-siphon tube installed may see liquid be sucked up because the tank is in a vertical position.

The good is that your marker will be lighter. If you can tolerate the air line hanging from your marker, you may be able to get into a smaller shooting position. Another plus is that the remote air line will act as an external anti-siphon tube for CO2 tanks that do not have anti-siphon tube because the tank is sitting in the vertical position.

Remotes come in 2 basic shapes and material. The favored one seems to be the coiled remote. This resembles a telephone line that is spiraled and will stretch and contract. Generally, these are coated with a rubber. The other type is a braided stainless steel hose. This is a straight line. Nothing fancy.

Other features that both should have is some sort of female quick disconnect for attaching one end to an air fitting on the marker. The other end will have a type of ASA that the bottle screws into. Some versions have an on/off knob (very useful; screw it all the way in) or an expansion chamber of some sort.

Both should be rated to at least 2,000psi. Anything lower or is frayed should not be used. And, both hoses can be used for CO2 or nitro. Remember that nitro tanks may have a capacity of 3,000psi or higher. But the built in regulator reduces that psi down to around 850psi.

Another concern for a remote is to properly de-gas your marker. It is very newbie looking to take the wrong end off and have the air line whip all around like you see in comedy movies with a water hose. I have seen it done. If you get a remote with an on/off knob, simply unscrew the knob until you feel no more resistance to "shut off" the air from the tank. Then shoot your marker without paintballs until it burps. For those that just has an ASA on the remote, unscrew the tank about 1 turn and shoot your marker without paintballs until it burps. If by the 4th trigger pull it doesn't burp, unscrew the tank about 1/2 turn and repeat firing. Repeat as needed until the marker burps. Those are the best ways to de-gas your marker.

If you go with a remote setup, you will also need something to carry the tank. There are dedicated air tank pouches that attach to your belt. Or, a common one is a multi-purpose pack. These packs may be designated as 4+1, 6+1 and others. These packs are able to carry not only the air tank, but also paintball tubes. The numbers at the beginning tells you how many bulk paintball tubes it can carry. The last one tells you if it will or will not fit a tank. So, a 4+1 can carry 4 bulk tubes of paint and 1 air tank. Make sure that the pack you're interested in will be able to fit the tank you are using. Most packs are built for CO2 tanks and not the larger nitro tanks.

You are able to use a remote with a standard bottomline, gas through, expansion chamber, or a regulator. It is all up to you.

Remote setup #1 - This is the easiest and cheapest setup. This requires that your marker have some sort of ASA. A remote of your choice. There is an adapter that looks like a threaded piece of metal that will screw into the ASA and a port to add a male air fitting. Just screw in the adapter into the ASA with the air fitting and connect the remote to the male air fitting. From there, screw in the tank into the ASA and secure the air tank in your pack. If your tank has an on/off, make sure you screw it in before you start playing.

Remote setup #2 - This is basically the same as above with some added equipment. With the above items, you will need a gas through stock (comes in many styles, adjustable length, color, etc), a 45* air fitting elbow, and a bottom line setup (if you do not already have one). Attach the bottomline to the grip. Screw on the gas through stock into the ASA of the bottomline. Add the male air fitting and the 45* elbow. Attach your remote and go! This is better for shooting as it gives a resting point for the marker when you aim.

Back to top...

Expansion Chamber

Expansion chambers are nice items to have for the player that has a hard time with liquid CO2. I rather you get yourself a regulator than an expansion chamber as I will explain why in the Regulator section of this article. I also suggest getting an anti-siphon tube in the CO2 tank with either the use of a regulator or an expansion chamber. Or, run remote and no anti-siphon tube for an off-gun setup.

An expansion chamber is basically a tube that has chambers that are designed to capture liquid CO2 before it enters into the valve area. After capturing this liquid, it provides added time for it to expand into a gas that your marker can use.

There are many different kinds of expansion chambers. Some attach directly to you tank. The more common and most practical are ones that act as fore grips. These are most effective as the heat from your had helps with the evaporation of the CO2. These expansion chambers are usually designated by the number of chambers inside. From one (Kingman uses these) to 20 chamber. More is not better. Especially when it comes to air flow. The best ones seem to be the 6-stage chambers like the ACI Sub-Zero ones.

But this added time that the expansion chamber expands the gas is what causes velocity spikes associated with CO2. There really is no way of preventing this with an expansion chamber. An anti-siphon tube properly installed will greatly reduce this risk. But with CO2, the more you shoot, the more chilled the tank will get. And the colder the tank gets, the less pressure is in your tank. This reduced pressure will in turn reduce the velocity. I must also add that it will not totally stop liquid CO2 from entering your marker. Better than nothing though.

You can use an expansion chamber with a nitro tank. Nitro doesn't need to be "expanded", as it is usually compressed air. Not a liquid needing evaporated into a gas. For those switching from CO2 to nitro will not need to immediately get something else. Some money saved there. If you wanted, you should be able to remove the chambers and make it into a gas through fore grip. A good idea as expansion chambers are airs restrictive for nitro use. But not needed to modify.

Expansion Chamber setup - What you will need is an expansion chamber of your choice like the ACI 6-stage. That way you can use it as a fore grip. You will also need a new air line. This will depend what you already have on the marker. Measure from port to port. A 90* air fitting for attaching the air line to the expansion chamber. For the other end of the air line, you will need a thread converter from a standard thread to a metric thread if using a Kingman stock bottom line or Kingman drop forward. If you are lucky enough to use the stock air lines, you will need a thread converter from metric to standard thread to attach the air line to the expansion chamber. Though, if your redoing the entire air setup, you will just need another 90* air fitting to screw into the ASA on the grip or drop forward.

Attach the air fittings and air line with teflon tape on the threads to ensure a good seal and attach them to your expansion chamber. The chamber will screw right into the VA. And don't forget the anti-siphon tube. I do suggest it. Your local shop should be able to install one for around $20 complete. And that is parts and labor.

Back to top...

Gas Through Fore Grip

This setup is geared more for the player that is running exclusively nitro and not LP. This is the same type of setup as the expansion chamber. Actually, identical setup to the expansion as the fore grip is basically an empty chamber. Nothing to catch liquid CO2. Though, you can get away with using a gas through grip with the use of a remote.

For those that have the need to grab hold of something when firing, then consider this. The gas through is almost like an LPC, but in the vertical position. There are many styles available. But all accomplish the same. Get one that appeals to you. Again, this is for this that are not interested in a LP setup, are using nitro, and need something to hold onto while shooting.

Fore Grip setup - What you will need is a fore grip of your choice. You will also need a new air line. This will depend what you already have on the marker. Measure from port to port and add about 1-2". A 90* air fitting for attaching the air line to the fore grip. For the other end of the air line, you will need a thread converter from a standard thread to a metric thread if using a Kingman stock bottom line or Kingman drop forward. If you are lucky enough to use the stock air lines, you will need a thread converter from metric to standard thread to attach the air line to the fore grip. Though, if your redoing the entire air setup, you will just need another 90* air fitting to screw into the ASA on the grip or drop forward.

Attach the air fittings and air line with teflon tape on the threads to ensure a good seal and attach them to the fore grip. The fore grip will screw right into the VA.

Back to top...

Regulator

This is by far what I suggest no matter what gas you use. This device will regulate your air from your tank to a certain PSI with every shot. This consistent pressure contributes to better grouping of your paintball on target.

Regulators come in all shapes, sizes, and price range. The inexpensive ones are typically not the best. The really high priced ones work well, but your out money you can put towards other upgrades. Budget in $60-$100 for a decent regulator. Regulators that fit in this price range are the Palmer Male stabilizer, Bob Long Power Regulator (both excellent for CO2 and nitro), and the Air America Vigilante (nitro only). A regulator is probably the most expensive item that you will purchase for your marker.

The setup for a regulator is the same as the above setups for expansion chambers and gas through grips. One addition that you might want to consider is a gauge. Their not needed to operate a regulator. And, they're not even accurate in there reading. It will, if you're interested, what the regulator output pressure is set at. Like regulators, they do come in different sizes. All gauges do the same thing. Get one that you like.

The regulator can act as a fore grip. They're sturdy enough to grab hold. You can also use an expansion chamber along with the regulator. So long the regulator is after the expansion chamber. If it was before, the regulator will have a hard time measuring the proper PSI. Instead of an expansion chamber, anti-siphon tube will work great. The Palmer is a step above as it has cavities inside of the body that act as an expansion chamber. A two-for-one deal. Still, not a bad idea to use an anti-siphon tube as it is not a guarantee to completely stop liquid CO2.

Regulator setup - What you will need is a regulator of your choice. Preferably one that will screw into the front. You will also need a new air line. This will depend what you already have on the marker. Measure from port to port and add about 1-2". A 90* air fitting for attaching the air line to the regulator. For the other end of the air line, you will need a thread converter from a standard thread to a metric thread if using a Kingman stock bottom line or Kingman drop forward. If you are lucky enough to use the stock air lines, you will need a thread converter from metric to standard thread to attach the air line to the regulator. Though, if your redoing the entire air setup, you will just need another 90* air fitting to screw into the ASA on the grip or drop forward.

Attach the air fittings and air line with teflon tape on the threads to ensure a good seal and attach them to the regulator. The regulator will screw right into the VA.

Back to top...

Anti-Siphon Tube

This should be considered if using CO2. This is a bent tube that is installed in your CO2 tank to keep from suctioning liquid CO2 from the tank. Getting Liquid CO2 into the internals will quick freeze the o-rings and cause them to break. Not exactly a good idea or very fun in replacing.

You can purchase tanks with anti-siphon tanks already installed. But beware. These may have the tube bending the wrong way when you screw on your tank. Instead of taking the gas only, you could be suctioning the liquid like a straw. Definitely not a good idea.

You are able to get an anti-siphon tube to install yourself. Or, make one yourself as I have instructions here. If you do not feel comfortable installing it yourself, your local shop should be able to install of for around $20 complete. If you use CO2, I do highly recommend this.