This modification is for those that have a Spyder that has those 3 screws in the back holding the velocity adjustor and bolt cap in place. It can be annoying getting out the tools and unscrewing them from the rear so that you can do simple maintenance. Worse yet, you invested $5 into those field strip screws that keep breaking because they have plastic heads. I have seen the newer Spyders come with a quick strip pins. I decided to "make" one myself.

Remove all air and paint prior to doing this modification. Read the instructions through. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for a trigger modification. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

All that it requires is a drill with a 1/4" drill bit for drilling into metal. You will also need a quick strip pin. Get one for the AutoCocker pin will work. I went the cheap route and went to my local hardware store and got what is called a cotter pin. It was much cheaper than an AutoCocker pin (say, $7 difference). And there basically the same thing. You will need 1/4" cotter pin. There are various styles available. From a pin with holes for a clevis pin to ones with ball bearings on the end.

First off, take out all of your internals and set aside. Including the valve. Replace the velocity adjustor and bolt cap. Secure with those three screws.

Now, figure out where to drill. I did not have the Kingman rear cocking bolt. So this made drilling a hole and worrying about clearance easier. I drilled in between the two tubes directly above the screws. You could drill about 1/8" to 1/4" ahead of the screws. Drill straight down through both walls of the body. Make sure you also drill alittle bit throught the velocity adjustor and bolt cap. Most importantly the velocity adjuster since this is the one under tension. The bolt cap is there to keep dirt out of the bolt area. Test to see if the pin fits. You may need to widen the hole.

For those that do have a Kingman rear cocking bolt (or similar aftermarket bolt), you may not be able to drill directly in between the the tubes. Try (it will be difficult) to drill more through the bottom tube. But this should give you enough clearance for the pin to be installed and the bolt to move freely.

Another caution is not to drill to much into the velocity adjustor. Remember, there is a main spring that needs adjusting from the velocity adjuster. The pin may bind the spring.

Last word of caution, do not drill to far forward so the the bolt pin the connects the bolt and striker is hindered.

After drilling and the pin fits without a problem, take everything out. Sand any sharp edges and clean all the shavings inside the marker. You can run water through the body. Make sure that the body is dry before reassembly. Left over shavings could damage the internals (that is why you removed the valve before drilling).

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