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The Spyder Pages Home Spyder F.A.Q. Basic Spyder F.A.Q. How It Works Basic Upkeep Assembly & Disassembly Troubleshooting Upgrades - F.A.Q. Advanced Spyder F.A.Q. Low Pressure - F.A.Q. Project - LP EM1 Articles Raven Primal Articles Spyder Related Reviews Home Spyder Mods Stock Bolt Rear Cocking Polishing Internals Gauge Mounting Vertical Adaptor Valve Pin and Valve Quick Strip Pin Mechanical Trigger Jobs Sweetspot Blade 50g Switch Install Magnetic Trigger Clear Grips Eye Installation Paint Your Marker Advanced Spyder Mods Spyder to Timmy Spyder Convertable SpyderCockers OtterSC Home Timothy Gochenauer OtterSC Customs All Rights Reserved |
The Primal is very simple on how it works. Just adding some electronics to fire the maker was added with the assistance of an electronic solenoid to operate the ram (or hammer). I will try and explain each portion of the marker and what it does. Remove all air and paint prior to maintaining your marker. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for the maintenance and troubleshooting. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications and suggestions listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share. Circuit Board: The circuit board can be found inside of the grip. It resembles the Kingman ESP boards. Even the grip looks very much like the CAMD ESP frame for Spyders. This is where the fire modes are programmed to carry out with each pull of the trigger. When the circuit is closed, this activates the microchip to fire the marker by activating the solenoid. By adjusting the button on the heal of the grip, your telling the circuit board the ROF and the type of firing you wish to perform with the marker (semi-auto, full-auto, etc...). There is also a toggle switch on the heal of the grip that will turn on and off the electronic eyes. Inline Regulator: This reduces the output pressure of the tank to the markers operating pressure of around 200 to 300psi. It is mounted on the vertical position on a vertical adaptor. It does an alright job. By adjusting it and increaseing the pressure, you increase the velocity. Lower the pressure and so does the velocity. Low Pressure Regulator: This is the round cylinder on the front, bottom tube. It should be set from the factory. So no adjustment is needed. To adjust this regulator, use a hex wrench to adjust. Clockwise to increase and counter-closkwise to decrease. This regulator takes the air that enters the marker and reduces it even more from the inline regulator. To around 100psi. This feeds the air to the electronic solenoid. Solenoid: The solenoid is a type of electronic valve that controls the ram. When activated by the circuit board, it takes the air from the LPR and pushes the ram forward. When the marker is not fired, the air is stopped by the solenoid and a spring attached to the bolt pulls the ram and bolt back to the "cocked" position. Ram or Striker: The ram is what hits the striker to open the valve and fire the marker. It is pushed forward by the solenoid releasing the air. Air is released by a hole in the pneumatic cylinder. Bolt: Nothing special about this part. It simply directs the air flow from the valve to the back of the paintball when the valve is open. Stock, it is made of a white, plastic type of material. As is, it is relatively friction free. It is also easy on the inside of the marker. The bolt is attached to the ram by way of a bolt pin. Pulling this pin out will allow you to remove the bolt and bolt plug. The spring attached to the bolt and plug will recock the marker when the solenoid stops putting pressure to the ram. | |
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