Assembly and Disassembly of the Raven Primal

In August of 2004, Kingman released its highly anticipated marker, the Raven Primal. This is the next generation of EM1 that Kingman produced earlier in the year 2000. The Primal has many new upgrades over its cousin. Yet, much of it is very similar.

The Primal is a totally different design from the typical Kingman marker like the Spyder. It still resembles the Bushmaster in design and operation. Like my EM1 articles, I have basically rolled over the same information with the proper changes as needed.

For this article, I have broken the assembly and disassembly of the Primal into two seperate groups. Unless you suspect a broken o-ring (leak) or played a very intense game, there is no need to fully take apart your marker. Do a simple cleaning of the outside. Then clean out the bolt/breech area. Nothing more should be done!

Remove all air and paint prior to maintaining your marker. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for the maintenance and troubleshooting. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications and suggestions listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

The disassembly of Primal is relatively simple, so long that you take your time and keep all of your parts. I do suggest logging onto the Kingman website and look in their "Technical" section for a diagram of the Primal. It will help you with showing where pieces go.

As you do take your marker apart, do it over an old towel that I suggest you have in your tool box as described in my Upkeep - F.A.Q.. That article is geared for the Spyders. Put the o-ring sizes aside, all of the article will fit the tool box for the Primal. Not only will that keep your area clean, but also keep screws from rolling off and getting lost. Take your time when you are working on your marker. There is no need to force parts. They should come out easily

Disassembly of your marker

Take off the barrel. This is done by simply unscrewing it from the marker. No big deal. I also suggest that you remove the battery, if one is present. The battery is removed by inscrewing the grip panel on the left side. Where the fire mode is displayed. Use a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 3 screws. For the Primal, it is suggested to use the Java battery that came with your marker. Though, a standard 9v battery is useable to operate the marker.

Unlike the EM1, you do not need to change fire modes via dip switches that is internal. You needed to access this by removing the grip panel. It is now external by a button on the heel of the grip. However, to remove (or insert) the jumper for the tournament lock, you will need to remove the left panel.

Removal of the bolt is easy. This is done by simply pulling up on the cocking pin. The back plug will "fall" out when you point the marker up. The bolt is attached to the back plug by a spring. The spring on the bolt end is simply screwed in.

The drop forward is removed from the grip using a hex wrench. One comes with your bag of spare parts. There are two screws holding the drop forward on the grip. If you wanted, these holes are inline to easily add any aftermarket drop foward. There are also two screws that hole the ASA onto the drop forward. A phillips head screw driver is needed to remove that. These screws are side-by-side. So, if you invest in a new drop forward, you will also need a new ASA and a metric thread converter.

The stock regulator that comes with the Primal is not bad. In fact, it is an improvement over the EM1. It is vertically mounted. I never did understand the reason Kingman had for mounting the regulator on the grip. Made it work to much to get from the regulator to the markers valve. If you are not fond of this, you can replace it using a VA for the Bushmaster. That way you could upgrade to a slightly better regulator of your choice. There are two silver setscrews on the top portion of the regulator. This allows you to rotate and reposition how your regulator is turned.

To remove the regulator from the body, you will need to unscrew it. It may come apart. That is, unscrew from the VA leaving the top portion of the regulator.

The Primal comes stock with metal braid air lines. They have metric threaded ends. Be mindful of that if you are changing ASA and/or regulator.

For those interested in trigger adjustment, there is a tiny setscrew on the trigger itself. Simply screw it in to shorten the pull for the front slack. This is the screw that can be seen through a small hole in the frame if looking from underneath the trigger. The back slack can also be adjusted by moving the set screw on the trigger itself.

Next, we shall remove the grip from the body. The Primal is essentially a CAMD ESP frame that you can purchase for a regular Spyder. The top portion is slightly different since you need to house an electronic solenoid that is mounted on the bottom of the body. To remove the grip completely, you will need to remove the eye covers on each side of the body. Use a phillips head screwdriver to do that. Now you can pull out the eyes. You could also disconnect the eyes from the board. This should be the thick black wire. It is connected to the top of the board.

Another item that I suggest you disconnect is the solenoid wire. This is connected at the bottom of the electronic board.

The next step to removing the grip is to use the hex wrench and unscrew four screws. These screws are located at each of the corners of the grip base. Remove those.

For the rear-bottom tube access of the marker, a small flat head screwdriver is needed. There is a silver pin that is screwed in holding everything in. Looking straight down on the marker where the cap was holding the bolt in place, it is located in the back of the marker.

The foregrip is also easy to remove. You may need a wrench to loosen it. I was able to use the short end of the hex wrench and inserted it in one of 3 pits. The hex wrench will privide leverage. Otherwise, I suggest you use a pipe wrench. But should unscrew right off. Typically, if there is a leak from this area, it may be the o-ring that is pressed between the body and the VA.

The LPR is the next item to totally striping the Primal. Unlike the EM1, you do not need a wrench to remove it. It has a knurled surface so that you can grip it and unscrew it. The LPR is what forces the hammer to hit the valve. You may have noticed no springs behind the hammer when you removed it earlier. It is all done from air pressure fed from the LPR into the solenoid. Attached to the LPR is the valve spring and valve pin. Notice the o-ring on the valve pin. The Primal is not a blowback marker like a Spyder. Remember the spring attached to the bolt and end cap? That spring is what brings back the bolt to the "cocked" position.

Adjsutment doesn't need done to the LPR. It should be all set from the factory. If you do find it necessary to adjust it, the maker needs to be fully together and gassed up. A hex wrench is inserted in the front and turned accordingly as per the instruction booklet.

I will not remove the solenoid. If you fear that there is dirt/paint around it, then use a small flat head screwdriver and remove 2 screws. Be aware of the gasket between the body and solenoid. Do not damage it in anyway. Also, do not attempt to make adjustments to the solenoid.

The valve is secured under the body by a setscrew. Remove it using an allen wrench. This will loosen the valve body. Us a soft item like a wooden dowel or pencil (eraser against the valve body) and push the valve out the front of the marker. Be careful not to damage the valve.

A quick note about the eyes. They are not only the cover for the eye hardware, it is also a ball detent using a ball bearing. This is removed using a philips head screw driver. Two screws need to be removed, one for each cover.

Well, that is all there is to disassembling the Raven Primal. Clean all the parts well with a paper towel. When you go to install everything, do not force the parts in. Also, be careful with parts containing o-rings. Make sure they are lightly oiled.

This is pretty simple. Just as you disassembled your marker, follow the instructions backwards. I will not go into detail step by step on the assembly. I will only bring out important things to consider during assembly. Make sure you add a light amount of oil to all o-rings.

Install your valve. Again, be careful not to scratch the valve. Also, there is a right and wrong direction to install the valve. Looking at the ends of the valve, there should be a hole larger than the other. This larger hole should face forward (the small hole should face the striker). Also, looking at the side of the valve body, there is a shorter space between the valve face and the o-ring. The thicker portion should be installed first. See picture of the disassembly of the valve. As pictured is how it was removed. Secure with the valve with the set screw on the bottom. Also make sure that the opening of the valve is pointing up.

Next, install the valve pin, valve spring, and LPR. It may be easier to put the valve spring onto the LPR and attach the valve pin. Then screw in the LPR.

Screw on the foregrip. Make sure it is tight to make a good seal.

Insert the hammer and bottom plug. Make sure the hole along the shaft are pointing down. This is so the air from the solenoid can enter and push the hammer forward without resistance. Secure with threaded pin.

Attach the regulator to the VA. Then attach the grip tub to the body using the 4 screws. Attach air line and drop forward to the bottom of the grip.

The next part is the trickyest. Looking at the bolt, you should see a milled out or cut on the top of the bolt. This should be on top when the bolt is installed. Install the bolt. Holding the marker in a slightly upward angle, insert the pin. Use a finger or screwdriver to push the bolt forward, catching on the milled out portion of the bolt. When the bolt is forward, push the pin in. The pin is what connects the bolt to the hammer.

When the hammer goes forward, this also closes the bolt, loading the paintball. The hammer hits the valve open and fires the paintball. The spring then pulls the bolt and hammer back when the pressure is reduced, opening the bolt and allowing the next paintball to be ready to load.

When inserting the pin, the upward angle will make sure the hammer is back. You will want the pin to rest between the hammer face and the next raised portion. If in front of the hammer, the hammer will fail to contact the valve pin. If behind, the bolt may either fail to close, or the hammer will not be pulled back.

Air up the marker and check for leaks. If none, you are done. Go out and play!!!