|
|
|
|
|
The Spyder Pages Home Spyder F.A.Q. Basic Spyder F.A.Q. How It Works Basic Upkeep Assembly & Disassembly Troubleshooting Upgrades - F.A.Q. Advanced Spyder F.A.Q. Low Pressure - F.A.Q. Project - LP EM1 Articles Raven Primal Articles Spyder Related Reviews Home Spyder Mods Stock Bolt Rear Cocking Polishing Internals Gauge Mounting Vertical Adaptor Valve Pin and Valve Quick Strip Pin Mechanical Trigger Jobs Sweetspot Blade 50g Switch Install Magnetic Trigger Clear Grips Eye Installation Paint Your Marker Advanced Spyder Mods Spyder to Timmy Spyder Convertable SpyderCockers OtterSC Home Timothy Gochenauer OtterSC Customs All Rights Reserved |
I will say for something more durable than painting, anodizing or powder coating is the way to go. And, there are many places that can do an entire marker for around $20 for a one color powder coat. Powder coating is like a layer of paint. But is much more durable. Any metal can be powder coated. It is kind of like a plating. Anodizing is a different process and can cost considerable amount of money. One color anodize job can cost over $100. But, this is the best way to have a color to stay. This process "soaks" into the aluminum. This process is limited to aluminum only. Other metals cannot be done. Thank you Lee for your help. If you wish to have your marker colorized, contact him for quotes.
Remove all air and paint prior to doing this modification. Read the instructions through. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for a trigger modification. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share. DO NOT DO THIS MODIFICATION TO AIR TANKS AS DAMAGE CAN BE DONE AND SEVERE INJURY CAN OCCUR! This article is intended for the person that is on a tight budget or wants to do a self modification. The materials needed can be found at the local stores. Krylon, Rustoleum, or other outdoor spray paint is needed. For shiny surfaces, an enamel is the way to go. Also, a clear coat of the same brand to finish off. You will also need automotive grey primer, steel wool or sand paper (about 300-400 grit and 1,000 grit). Prepare before painting To ready your surface, you need to take your marker fully apart. Clean any dirt, paint, and oil from the body. This includes the inside as well. it is possible for the inside grime to seap out and spoil the paint. You could use soap and water. or, rubbing alcohal will work too. Next, use some sand paper and sand the surface. Rub the entire surface that you are wanting to get painted. including the cracks. If there are imperfections, smooth it out if you wish. You do not need to take the existing finish off. Just need to rough the surface and give the paint something to adhere to. You could use sandpaper between 300 and 400 grit. Wash the pieces off under water. Some soap is fine to help clean the surfaces. Wash off any grime from sanding. Rinse and let dry. Wipe the best you can with some paper towels. Then air dry for an hour or two. With masking tape, seal any and all openings. You do not want to have paint on the inside of the body. Remember, there should be no internals inside the body. Primer, Paint, and Seal After you get everything taped off, your now ready to paint. Find a place that you can paint. A garage is nice. Or, outside. If you do it outside, make sure your not painting in the spring or fall. Nothing worse than having flower petals or leaves stuck to the body. I also suggest that you find a place where your parts can dry undesturbed for an hour or two. Use a wire coat hanger to hang the pieces up. Take your primer and spray the parts. Shake the can and use long, steady strokes. Hold the can about 6" from the parts. Do not worry about covering the surfaces all in one shot. A second coat is needed. Trying to cover all in one shot will cause streaks or runs. Let the first coat dry for several hours. Take some sand paper and roughly go over the surface. Don't sand. Wipe the dirt off. Apply another coat of primer. Again, long steady strokes about 6" from the parts. It is a good idea to let the marker dry overnight. Let dry and scuff again. Wipe off any dust. When scuffing, try not to take off the primer and leave the aluminum showing. Respray lightly as needed. Next, time to paint. Make sure that there is not dust or dirt on the surface. Take an old towel and wipe the surfaces well. Like the primer, spray in long steady strokes and about 6" from the surface. Do not worry about rushing and trying to cover everything in one stroke. If you do, you will run the risk of paint bubbles and streaks. Do light steady strokes. Let each coat dry the best you can. If it is a warm day, paint tends to dry quicker than on cold days. Also, it depends on the type of paint you use. Let dry about 15 to 30 minutes. Touch a taped part. It should be tacky feeling and not wet. Do about 3-4 coats of paint. For metalic paint, more layers will be needed. About 6-7 coats. Don't rush. If you rush or spray heavily, the paint very well can run. If it runs, you will need to sand it down and do the process over again. Do light coats. The last coat can be slower. For the clear coat, let the paint dry for atleast an hour. Apply the same way as the primer and paint. Apply about 2 coats. Long steady strokes. Best to let the last clear coat to dry for 3 hours. Better if overnight. Iron Chef! What does baking have to do with painting? Well, if you call an auto body shop and ask the process of painting vehicles, most likely you will hear something about a baking process. This helps set the paint and become harder. First, ask for permission to use the oven. Set one rack to the highest level and check to see if you can suspend the marker from the rack. Do not set on a rack. You will get grill marks on the paint. Using the 1,000 grit paper, lightly scuff the entire painted surface. Wipe off the dust and apply a single (and last) coat of Clear Coat. Let dry for 30-minutes. Take off any tape that you have to protect the inside from over spray. Hang in the oven and set the temperature to 150*F. Bake for about 1 hour. Do not leave the area. Any sign of smoke, take it out immediately. No need to have your paintball privaledges taken away because you burnt the house down. Take the marker out of the oven. Be careful, it will be very hot. Hang it up in the garage over night to let it set and cool. Reassemble the marker and enjoy the new paint job. As a thought, paint your marker over a weeks time. Do the cleaning process on sunday night. Add the primer on Monday. Two to three coats of paint tuesday and wednesday. Clear coat on thursday. Bake on friday. | |
|
|
|
|---|