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Timothy Gochenauer
OtterSC Customs
All Rights Reserved

Magnetic Trigger Return Modification

This is not my modification. But I have done it. My personal notes and experience are in itallics. This modification was originally done by dex_rodriguez from the Kingman Forums. With his permission, I thought I would add this modification to my site with more pictures. This mod was also attempted on other markers with success.

Remove all air and paint prior to doing this modification. Read the instructions through. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for a trigger modification. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

1. Get some magnets from Radio Shack. These magnets are catalog #64-1895. I did not know it at the time, but there are two magnets per package. These are magnets. They will be stuck together. It cost me under $2.00 (incudes tax) per package.

2. Take apart your trigger frame by removing it from the body. You will then need to remove the trigger. To do this, look at the pin that is holding the trigger inside of the frame. One side will look like a multi-pointed star. The other will be smooth. You will want to hit the pin on the smooth with somthing that is smaller in diameter of the pin. Unless Kingman changes it's design, it will not be from the on/off switch side. You need to tap out the pin on the side that the on/off switch is not on. I used a 3mm Metric allen wrench or key. It may take a few good whacks. Would not be a bad idea to remove the electronics as well. Since you will be cutting metal, you could get metal burr and other dirt on the electronics.

3. Drill and route a small recess that will fit your magnets. A dremel will have a routing bit. But not everybody has one. Hand drills are more common. That is what I used for this mod. A 13/64" drill bit is round enough to make a recessed space for the magnets. On your trigger frame be careful of the drilling since you might make an unwanted hole at the bottom of your trigger frame. That's why after after drilling a small hole it's best to use a routing/cutting bit. If you use the hand drill method, go slowly. For the frame, you just want to cut into the metal of the full diameter of the bit. Once done, drill slowly about 1/16 more to make a recessed hole. Becareful not to drill all the way through! For the trigger, there should be a spring that is inserted in a small hole. Remove the spring. Also, screw in the set screw just about 2 turns. I secured the trigger (set screw down) in a pair of locking pliers. I then slowly enlarged the recessed hole that the spring was located in. It's okay if the magnets are not completely recessed in the hole. Just as long as the trigger moves freely when installed. The closer the magnets are, the strong (and quicker) the return. Further away and the more sluggish the trigger may feel.

4. After making the necesarry recess, dry fit your magnets for proper fit. If the magnets fit, put on some glue or silicone and glue it there. NOTE: the magnets should be facing each other with the same polarity so as to repel. Mark the face of the magnet with same polarity with a marker so you won't confuse yourself later. I used Gorilla Glue to secure the magnets in place.

Here is a diagram of the overall modification.

5. This mod should take about 15 minutes of your time.



Quick note:

I hope that you find this information useful to your paintball experience. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me through e-mail.