Assembly and Disassembly of the EM1

The EM1 is a totally different design Kingman marker as compared to the other designs under the same brand name. The EM1 (or as many call it, an Emmie) more resembles the Bushmaster. Lot's of similar design between the two markers with a few Kingman twists to keep from making a direct copy. I have broken the assembly and disassembly of the Emmie into two seperate groups. Unless you suspect a broken o-ring (leak) or played a very intense game, there is no need to fully take apart your marker. Do a simple cleaning of the outside. Then clean out the bolt/breech area. Nothing more should be done.

Remove all air and paint prior to maintaining your marker. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for the maintenance and troubleshooting. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications and suggestions listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

The disassembly of EM1 is relatively simple so long that you take your time and keep all of your parts. I do suggest logging onto the KingmanUSA website and look in their "Technical" section for a diagram of the EM1. It will help you with showing where pieces go.

As you do take your marker apart, do it over an old towel that I suggest you have in your tool box as described in my Upkeep - F.A.Q.. Not only will that keep your area clean, but also keep screws from rolling off and getting lost. Take your time when you are working on your marker. There is no need to force parts. They should come out easily

Disassembly of your marker

Take off the barrel. This is done by simply unscrewing it from the marker. No big deal. I also suggest that you remove the battery, if one is present. The battery door is on the right side. Remove the screw that is near. For the EM1, a standard 9v battery is useable to operate the marker. I suggest a rechargeable like a Metal-Hydried. It will be cheaper for you in the long run.

To access the dip switches for the marker, you need to remove the grip panel on the left side. You need a philips head screw driver to remove the two screws. The pic below shows the 2 different boards. The one that is installed is the first generation boards that are capable of 20bps. The one with the blue highlights are better on battery consumption, but are capped at 15bps. The blue one are in the newer, or Java edition Emmies.

Removal of the bolt is easy. This is done by simply pulling up on the cocking pin. The back plug will "fall" out when you point the marker up. The bolt is attached to the back plug by a spring. The spring on the bolt end is simply screwed in.

The stock regulator that comes with the Emmie is not bad. Even for a stock factory regulator. Though, in my opinion, a regulator that is mounted closer to the valve is better for efficiency. For that, a Bushmaster VA can replace the existing VA. But this is not an article on upgrades. To adjust the regulator, the set screw just to the right of the gauge is used for adjustment.

To remove the regulator from the grip, use a philips head screw driver and remove the two screws that are underneath.

So that the EM1's regulator is not dangling, remove from the air line. If you have a metal braid line, simply unscrew it. If it is a macroline (like the one pictured above), push in on the metal fitting while pulling gently on the macroline. Inspect the line for any damages and replace as needed.

For those interested in trigger adjustment, there is a tiny setscrew on the trigger itself. Simply screw it in to shorten the pull.

Next, we shall remove the trigger from the body. If you removed the battery door as mentioned above, you have 3 more screws to remove. Again, using a philips head screw driver, remove the remaining screws from around the tub. Do not yank the trigger frame off the body. There is a wire connection from the board to the solenoid that is attached to the body. This is a simple plug that pulls apart.

Solenoid connected

Solenoid disconnected

For the rear-bottom access of the marker, a small flat head screwdriver is needed. There is a silver pin that is screwed in holding everything in. Looking straight down on the marker, it is located in the back of the marker. If the bolt plug was still in place, it may have been partially hidden.

The foregrip is also easy to remove. You may need a wrench to loosen it. But should unscrew right off. Typically, if there is a leak from this area, it may be the o-ring that is pressed between the body and the foregrip. Another note is that this foregrip is in no way an expansion chamber. It is a gas through trip. As Kingman recommends, I too recommend only using HPA/N2 with this marker.

The LPR is the next item to totally striping the Emmie. Again, using a wrench, loosen it from the body and screw off. The LPR is what forces the hammer to hit the valve. You may have noticed no springs behind the hammer. It is all done from air pressure fed from the LPR into the solenoid. Attached to the LPR is the valve spring and valve pin. Notice the o-ring on the valve pin. This is not a blowback marker like a Spyder. Remember the spring attached to the bolt? That is what brings back the bolt.

Do note that there is a warning on the LPR. The solenoid is very sensitive to high pressures. Too much pressure may cause it to blow. New ones may cost a good amount of cash. Head that warning. The factory setting is good enough (about 80psi).

I will not remove the solenoid. If you fear that there is dirt/paint around it, then use a small flat head screwdriver and remove 2 screws. Be aware of the gasket between the body and solenoid. Do not damage it in anyway. Also, do not attempt to make adjustments to the solenoid.

The valve is secured under the body by a setscrew. Remove it using an allen wrench. This will loosen the valve body. Us a soft item like a wooden dowel or pencil and push the valve out the front of the marker. Be careful not to damage the valve.

An interesting not on the ball detent. It is exactly the same as an AutoCockers detent. So a replacement is simple. This simply unscrews from the side of the body. The vertical feed is removed using a philips head screw driver. Two screws need to be removed.

Well, that is all there is to disassembling the marker. Clean all the parts well with a paper towel. When you go to install everything, do not force the parts in. Also, be careful with parts containing o-rings. Make sure they are lightly oiled.

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This is pretty simple. Just as you disassembled your marker, follow the instructions backwards. I will not go into detail step by step on the assembly. I will only bring out important things to consider during assembly. Make sure you add a light amount of oil to all o-rings.

Install your valve. Again, be careful not to scratch the valve. Also, there is a right and wrong direction to install the valve. Looking at the ends of the valve, there should be a hole larger than the other. This larger hole should face forward (the small hole should face the striker). Also, looking at the side of the valve body, there is a shorter space between the valve face and the o-ring. The thicker portion should be installed first. See picture of the disassembly of the valve. As pictured is how it was removed. Secure with the valve with the set screw on the bottom

Next, install the valve pin, valve spring, and LPR. It may be easier to put the valve spring onto the LPR and attach the valve pin.

Screw on the foregrip. Make sure it is tight to make a good seal.

Insert the hammer and bottom plug. Make sure the hole along the shaft are pointing down. This is so the air from the solenoid can enter and push the hammer forward without resistance. Secure with threaded pin.

Attach the regulator to the grip. Then attach the grip tub to the body using the 4 screws. Attach the air line to the regulator.

The next part is the trickyest. Looking at the bolt, you should see a milled out or cut on the top of the bolt. This should be on top when the bolt is installed. Install the bolt. Holding the marker in a slightly upward angle, insert the pin. Use a finger or screwdriver to push the bolt forward, catching on the milled out portion of the bolt. When the bolt is forward, push the pin in. The pin is what connects the bolt to the hammer.

When the hammer goes forward, this also closes the bolt, loading the paintball. The hammer hits the valve open and fires the paintball. The spring then pulls the bolt and hammer back when the pressure is reduced, opening the bolt and allowing the next paintball to be ready to load.

When inserting the pin, the upward angle will make sure the hammer is back. You will want the pin to rest between the hammer face and the next raised portion. If in front of the hammer, the hammer will fail to contact the valve pin. If behind, the bolt may either fail to close, or the hammer will not be pulled back.

Air up the marker and check for leaks. If none, you are done. Go out and play!!!

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