Whether you have a Compact 2000 or the E-99, all of the Kingman markers (except the EM1 and Hammer) will disassemble and assemble the same. I have broken the assembly and disassembly of the Spyder into two separate groups. The first one is the complete disassembly for a thorough cleaning as I mention in my Upkeep - F.A.Q.. The second section is the minimum disassembly to change the following...

• Main spring
• Valve spring
• Cup seal

Remember, whenever you do work on your Spyder, make sure there are no paintballs or gas in your marker. Remove all air and paint prior to maintaining your marker. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for the maintenance and troubleshooting. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications and suggestions listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

The disassembly of the Spyder paintball markers are almost all the same procedure. Some models may have an expansion chamber while others are simply a fore grip. Some have neither. But no matter what model you have, it is all basically the same procedure. Refer to your diagram that you should have gotten with your Spyder. If none, log onto the KingmanUSA website and look in their "Technical" section for the diagrams. Remember, most all of the Spyders have the same parts and operate the same. So, if you click on the model and no diagram comes up, click on another that looks similar. As a last resort, e-mail me. I may have a scanned image hidden away somewhere that I can send you.

As you do take your marker apart, do it over an old towel that I suggest you have in your tool box as described in my Upkeep - F.A.Q.. Not only will that keep your area clean, but also keep screws from rolling off and getting lost. Take your time when you are working on your marker. Most all of the parts that are not under tension by springs should slide into place easily. No need to force them in. I also suggest that you look over my Working Diagram to see what these parts do.

Disassembly of your marker

Take off the barrel by simply unscrewing it from the body. Also, to make things easier to take apart the remaining marker, remove the trigger frame. Removing 2 screws (1 in front, 1 to the rear; see picture below) does this. If you have hoses, an ASA, or a regulator attached to the bottom of the grip, unscrew them from the grip. This typically requires a phillips head screwdriver. These are typically 2 screws with very small lock washers.

For the rear access of the marker, your model of Spyder either has a pull pin or 3 screws (one on either side of the bottom tube, one on the top).

Remove the pin or screws. Be careful, as the velocity adjuster is under tension from the main spring. As you are removing the pin or screws, hold down on the velocity adjuster. When the pin or screws are removed, slowly ease up on the velocity adjuster. Again, depending on the model, there are several variants. As shown below, the bolt cap and velocity adjuster can be one piece or these items can be two pieces. Even some of the rear cocking will not have a cap for the top tube.

With whatever version you have, remove the velocity adjuster, the flat disk, spring pin and main spring as shown in the picture above.

Next, we will remove the bolt assembly. For you rear cocking owners, simply pull straight back on the cocking knob to reveal striker buffer and the bolt assembly (the bolt and striker). Side cocking users will need to unscrew the cocking knob (as pictured above). Then insert a pencil and push the striker from the bottom or side if the bolt assembly doesn't fall out.

For the valve area, it may vary from Spyder to Spyder. You will need to remove the trigger frame if you have not done so already. For the full size body, unscrew the LPC from the marker. Carefully remove the LPC, as there should be an o-ring and can be damaged from the threads. Skip the next paragraph.

If you have a vertical adapter (compact body style; pictured above), you will need to remove the vertical adapter. Like you would to change the valve pin or cup seal, unscrew the screw directly behind the vertical adapter (or VA). You may need to push it in to get the screw out since the VA is under tension of the valve spring.

When removed, you should find the valve spring, pin guide (4-point washer), valve pin and cup seal (pictured above). To change the cup seal, simply unscrew the plastic piece from the pin and replace with new one. If your switching valve springs, replace with a similar spring of similar size.

All that remains in the body is the valve itself (see picture above). The valve is a very important part of your marker. It can scratch easily. Only remove the valve if it is really needed for inspection. To remove it, unscrew the brass screw from the bottom of the marker body. When pushing the valve out, use a pencil with the eraser against the valve or a wooden dowel. Insert the pencil from the velocity adjuster end and push.

The last picture below shows the ball detent or nubbin. This is located on the side of the marker body. Remove the two screws with a phillips head screwdriver. Take off the cover. The little rubber piece is the nubbin. If it is worn out, you could feed more than one ball. Replace it if it looks worn.

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This is pretty simple. Just as you disassembled your marker, follow the instructions backwards.

Install your valve. Again, be careful not to scratch the valve. Also, there is a right and wrong direction to install the valve. Looking at the ends of the valve, there should be a hole larger than the other (see picture above). This larger hole should face forward (the small hole should face the striker). Secure with the brass valve screw. It is optimal for this screw be flush with the body when screwed in. The reason for this is airflow. Especially with the turbo valves. If the screw was all the way in, it could hamper the airflow for LP setups. If there is a problem with it not staying screwed in place while shooting, try adding some teflon tape.

Next, install the valve pin and cup seal with the pin guide and valve spring attached. It may be easier to put the valve spring onto the VA and attach the valve pin, cup seal, and pin guide. Then insert the VA "assembled". What ever is easier for you. Push this in while turning in the screw that secures the VA. For the full size body Spyders, you will do the same thing, except you will screw in the LPC in front of the marker body. Done! You are half way there!

The rear portion is just as easy. Connect the bolt to the striker via the bolt pin that is attached to the bolt. Install into the rear of the marker. The striker and bolt need to be apart so far to fit. For those that have installed the grip frame before the bolt, there is a little trick to getting the bolt assembly in. Push down on the bolt. As you push on the bolt, pull the trigger a few times. The bolt assembly should "slip" into place.

Install the striker buffer, main spring, spring pin, and the flat disk. Replace the velocity adjuster and push down on the spring. Line up the holes and install the quick strip pin or screws.

Replace the trigger frame and the bottom line. Gas it up and make sure it works.

You are done. Go out and play.

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Disassembly

Take off the barrel. Removing the trigger frame is optional. Either way is fine.

For the rear access of the marker, your model of Spyder either has a pull pin or 3 screws (one on either side of the bottom tube, one on the top of the top tube). Both types are shown in the pictures below.

Remove the pin or screws. Be careful, as the velocity adjuster is under tension from the main spring. As you are removing the pin or screws, hold down on the velocity adjuster. When the pin or screws are removed, slowly ease up on the velocity adjuster. Again, depending on the model, there are several variants of pieces as shown below. The bolt cap and velocity adjuster can be one piece or these items can be two pieces. Even some of the rear cocking will not have a cap for the top tube.

With whatever version you have, remove the velocity adjuster, the flat disk, spring pin and main spring as shown in the picture above. Switch this spring for the new one that you want.

Assembly

Just as you disassembled your marker, follow the instructions backwards.

Install the new main spring, spring pin, and the flat disk. Replace the velocity adjuster and push down on the spring. Line up the holes and install the quick strip pin or screws.

Replace the trigger frame if you had removed it and any other items that you removed. Gas it up and make sure it works.

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Changing the Valve Spring or Cup Seal

If you need to change the valve spring or the cup seal, there is no need to disassemble your entire marker. Or needing to remove the trigger grip. It is a pretty easy process that you can do quickly at the field.

For the full size markers, simply unscrew the low-pressure chamber (or LPC) to reveal the valve spring, pin guide (4-pointed washer), valve pin and cup seal.

If you have a vertical adapter (compact body style; pictured above), you will need to remove the vertical adapter. Unscrew the screw directly behind the vertical adapter (or VA). You may need to push in the VA to get the screw out since the VA is under tension of the valve spring. Removing the VA will reveal the valve spring, pin guide (4-point washer), valve pin and cup seal (pictured below).

When you remove the VA or LPC from your marker, change the valve spring with another valve spring of similar dimensions from the spring kit.

If it is the cup seal that you are replacing, just unscrew it from the valve pin. Screw on the new cup seal. I do suggest a Lapco cup seal as a replacement as this is made of a softer material and will seal common cup seal leaks.

Assembly of your marker

This is pretty simple. Just as you disassembled your marker, follow the instructions backwards.

Next, install the valve pin and cup seal with the pin guide and valve spring attached. It may be easier to put the valve spring onto the VA and attach the valve pin, cup seal, and pin guide. Then insert the VA "assembled". What ever is easier for you. Push this in while turning in the screw that secures the VA. For the full size body Spyders, same thing as the VA except you will screw in the LPC in front of the marker body.

Gas up the marker and make sure it works.

You are done. Go out and play.

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