Created by Guillaume Côté

First of all, this article is not of the "how-to" kind. Rather, it is here only to give idea and kind of Data about "what works" and "what do not work". If you need a how-to, then don’t start a similar project.

Third, I am not too bad with my hands. See my web site to see some of my work. It took me four days of work to get it working. So, do not expect it to be done in few hours!

• My Cost

• Tools Used

• Marker Modifications

• Install Cocker Parts

• Conclusion

My Cost

Paintball marker: My piranha VTL G2 cost 200 CAN$ few years ago, you can get something similar for 80$ now.

Cocker parts: I got a regulator, ram, and a 3-way brand new on ebay for 55$ + shipping + timing rod adapter 15$ for a total of 80$

Machining: 15$ if you don’t have a lathe.

Other parts: Aluminium bar stock, bolt, screw, etc = 10$ or less

Grand total: 185$

Tools Used

Needed:

• Angle grinder, or something else to cut
• Files, all kinds
• Tap kit, 6/32 and pipe threading + cocker part thread
• Drill press + drill bits
• Vice

Optional:

• V-block to hold cylindrical part when drilling
• Polishing wheel to give nice finish

Marker Modifications

• The Body

• Valve Pin

• The Bolt

• The Hammer

The Body

Due to my setup for regulator assembly, I needed to get the valve out of the marker from somewhere else than front of marker. After a long thinking session analysing all way the valve could go out, I’ve choose to open the back of marker by filling the metal on wich the valve sit normally.

As you can see on the picture my whole body has been polished and filed here and there to make the marker sexier. But I think the gun will fire even if it is not polished.

The Valve Pin

In order to remove the blowback system on the hammer, you need to stop the air to the hammer. There could be many ways to do it. I have choosen to make a new pin. The new pin is completely round and longer.

Why longer? The hammer movement is longer than RAM movement. So the marker could not cock unless you make a longer valve pin. I think it is about .5" longer, maybe a bit less.

The Bolt

The bolt needed to be longer so I’ve removed the back part of it and replaced it with larger (and better looking) aluminium round stock. Wish I drilled at one end so that the hammer-bolt pin enters into it. Talking about this pin, i have cut and glued with Red Loctite on the bolt to align the bolt correctly.

Hammer

Drilling in hammer*: You will need to remove the case hardening. For this, buff about 1/16 thick of steel before drilling because this treatment hardens the steel only on surface.

* Assuming your hammer has been heat treated the same way as my piranha. If it is all hardened, you have a problem. The steel is too hard to be drilled.

Velocity is adjusted by placing modified (to fit) washer behind the spring.

The hammer doesn’t need any system to be aligned because the flat surface + sear do the job.

PS: My hammer is welded with hard facing rod to have a lighter pull. Wish I could not do with the small layer of hardened steel.

Cocker Parts Installation

• Regulator

• RAM

• 3-Way

• Back Block

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Regulator

You can place it at many place but I’ve choose the most dangerous one: if you chop your threading then the body is scraped, or at least it need aluminium welding, wish suck. So don’t do like me, put it anywhere else! The tap is the pipe threading one, those are conical so if you need the reg to be at a precise angle you have to tap it a bit, try the reg and see where it stop, then re-tap a bit until the reg stop ¼ of turn before where it should be when installed. When installing it put Red Loctite on both reg and hole, put it in place and let it dry



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RAM

Nothing special. Using files, I’ve made a fitting that screws on the marker. I did mine very precisely but realized later that a cocker doesn’t need to be as precise.



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3-Way

Again using file, I’ve made a fitting to put the 3-way in. But I did not have the tap for it. So it is simply a hole with a lock-screw. Since there is not much tension there, it works perfectly. This one was a bit long to make due to its shape



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Back Block

Be creative to give it sexy curve. Mine was one-piece. But the 6/32 tap broke while doing the RAM thread. So I’ve cut it and made an attachment. This moving part somewhat helps to remove up/down tension in ram rod….but don’t do it, no real use.

The bolt hole has to be tight fit. I then used a lock screw to lock the bolt. Once you have found the ring place for the bolt, drill the back part of it so that the lock screw goes into it. If you don’t do this, after a few hundred shots the screw will move a bit due to vibration.

The hole for cocking rod must be larger than the rod to move freely

Note: take your time here, you have 3 hole that need to be placed and oriented well since the part will need to move very quickly using these 3 axes.

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The Conclusion

FAQ: - yup I play with 800 psi direct in the cocker reg and it does not break it.

-yup the barrel on picture is 4 inch long, I polished the interior and made new hole. It shoots approximately like a stock barrel full size

Positive:

• Better ROF
• Less blowback
• Look and feel nice

Negative:

• Eat a lot of co2
• Hard to adjust velocity

All in all, I’m pretty happy with the marker, I played with it about 10 days without a problem up until now (I had some problem before final setup). But keep in mind that if you do this, you do it for Fun and not for Performance, or you will get disappointed.

Feel free to contact me at Armurecote.cjb.net

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